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Anti run on valve

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H

hloomis_7_1_1

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Need some help here as I'm finally got the car to the point of starting. When I connect the battery cables the anti run on valve gets hot enough to burn your fingers I know this can't be right, can someone tell me a possible reason for this, and a cure? Also the fuse holder with green pink stripe wire and white green stripe get hot also.
Thank you,
Harry Loomis
 
Harry, No help here. I do not run anti run on valves. I am parting a rubber bumper GT and it has a the AROV. Its yours if you need it. Bob
 
Hi HLoomis. For starters the anti run on valve shouldn't be getting power with the ignition on. The only time it gets power is when the ignition is shut off and there is oil pressure. Which can only happen when you shut it off.The valve allows a ground to happen to complete the circuit when the oil pressure is there but the ignition is shut off.The valve then shuts and allows engine vacuum to act on the carb float bowls through the vent lines as the engine dies.
I just watched John Twist's video on MGB emission systems and he cover's the anti run on valve and how it works in the system.Here is a link to it.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Universitymotorsltd#p/u/79/qIvcvizitLk

Its about the 4 minute mark when he gets to the a.r.o.v.

There is power going to the oil pressure swith though i believe, mabey you just have the wires going to the wrong one. IE.Oil pressure switch power going to the anti run on valve and the line for the anti run on valve going to the oil pressure switch.The two are close together for sure, within a few inches on my 74.

Hope this helps. Mark
 
Thanks fogliner, canyou tell me what wire you have coming off the oil pressure switch and what terminal it goes to on the anti run on valve?
Thanks,
HL
 
It seems the problem was the oil switch a new one I had purchased from VB, I found the old one and now AROV is no longer heating up. I would never have guessed that there were two kinds of oil switches.
 
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