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Anti roll bar bushing installation

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
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I'm getting ready to put my anti roll bar back on the car. I have new bushings (poly) and links, etc. My first question is how in the Sam Hill do I get the bushings on the sway bar? Do they remain intact, or do I cut them lengthwise and wrap them around the bar? Secondly, the poly bushes for the link have a little raised inner cylinder that sticks up about 2mm from the rest of the bushing (rubber bush on link lacks this). I'm assuming this is supposed to fit in the hole in the sway bar, but that would mean NOT using the inner "cymbal" (black metal ring on link in photo). I can use the cymbal with the poly, but that raised area would serve no purpose if I did. What would be best to do? Third question: Though not visible in the picture, the two rubber bushes on the link are riding on a single metal sleeve. If I were to use the rubber, am I supposed to cut that in two? If I use the poly, am I supposed to cut it in two and transfer it to the poly?
polybushes.jpg

Thanks for any and all help.
 
The large bushings for the sway bar (they should have a slit on one end) need to be pried open. I used a large flat screwdriver and lubricant--its a little tough but they will go on, Im not sure what you are asking about the links, but you do not have to cut anything, I would use only the larger shiny plates behind each bushing, the smaller plates are not needed,the inside of each bushing fits up directley to each side of the hole.after the bushings are compressed they should seat on the plates and bar just fine, but dont over compress--there should be just a little bulge on the side of the bushing.
 
I found that the only way I could get the larger bushings onto the sway bar was to put them in boiling water for a few minutes. They were then soft enough to push over the end of the bar.

I used all four washer/cymbals on each link, but only because the man at Moss told me to! I think that the shape of the cymbal washers helps to stop the bush spreading and splitting, but that's just my guess. The metal sleeve was stuck on the link when I removed the old rubber bushes, so I didn't move it and the bushes went on fine. The problem came when I tried to attach the links to the bar on the car - I just couldn't compress the bushes enough to thread the lower nut. In the end I removed the centre mountings (large bushes) and then the links fastened up reasonably easily. Then I had to re-do the centre links under the radiator. What a pain that is...

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
John/Alistair-

The swaybar bushings are amoung the very few tasks I was
completely unable to perform and finally gave up after
several fruitless days..

This was way before I knew about this forum. As it turns out
the new bushings would have been wasted on my car.

d
 
Allan, my large bushings (bought from BPNorthwest) do NOT have the slit, but I imagine I could do it with a very sharp blade. Or I could try Alistair's method. Alistair, does boiling the bushings not have any ill effects on the elasticity or other properties?
 
I would contact BPNW and ask for their recomendation, cant see how the bushings are going to slide over the flat ends or slide around the bends??
 
John Mc
Try greasing the bar and inside the bushing. Boiling the bushing will not affect the elasticity. You may have to put the bar in a vice for a solid anchor. It will go!!
Joe
 
I put my poly front roll bar bushings in hot water for a couple of minutes and it made a huge difference. Just my experience, but it worked like a charm.
 
Wow! Hot water IS the trick! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/bow.gif Ridiculously easy! Dale, you'll be amazed. I used Crisco to slide them on but I'm pretty sure it was not needed. It felt like the bushing would have gone on easily without. Thanks gents!
 
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