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TR2/3/3A Another Steering Question...

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K

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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How much side to side movement from center should there be on the steering wheel when the steering box and the rest of the front end components have been replaced?
 
Free play should be next to nothing. the only play is in the box and it is just enough not to have any binding on the worm. the Lock to lock is in the Haynes manual and mine is in the garage right now and it is 40 degrees outside @2:00 am.
Bob
 
What I meant was: that with the front end of the car on jack stands and you were to turn the steering wheel , would the front wheels move immediately corresponding to the steering wheel or would they move only after the steering wheel had moved a couple inches before contact was made. In other words how much slop should there be in the steering wheel before the wheels begin to turn? Seems to me all the TR3's that I've been around seem to have varying degrees of slop in the steering wheel. :confuse:
 
Like Bob says...I also have zero slop in mine, but that is a fresh rebuild. With zero slop it is a bit harder to maneuver at slow speeds with the steering effort. I think it’s worth it, though, to remove all play at speed.

I think most rebuilds shoot for about 1-2 inches of play measured at the rim of the steering wheel. More than 2 inches is definitely too much.
 
CJD said:
I think most rebuilds shoot for about 1-2 inches of play measured at the rim of the steering wheel.
Click to expand...
Now that's in my ballpark.
Tom
 
I have about 1 to 1.5" free play measured from the rim of the steering wheel. I have the apron off, radiator and engine out. I attempted to remove the silent bloc to free the steering box to check free play, but could not get the nut off because the top turned even when the outer part was held with a vice grip. After finding this post, I wonder if I shouldn't just leave well enough alone. Is there consensus that 1 - 2 inches of play is acceptable?
 
I have noticeably more play after my recent rebuild than before it. (But on the plus side, it doesn't leak any more. :smile:) I would like it tighter. Plan to have another go at it this winter.
 
JFS said:
I have about 1 to 1.5" free play measured from the rim of the steering wheel...Is there consensus that 1 - 2 inches of play is acceptable?
Click to expand...

In my opinion that is fine and close to normal. I would actually be wary of a set-up that resulted in zero play.

If you do decide to replace the Silent Blocs it sounds like your angle grinder will be of more use than a wrench.
 
I was thinking of trying a nut splitter. Even though this would be a good time to do the box, I'm seriously thinking of letting well enough alone.
 
Snowkilts said:
I have noticeably more play after my recent rebuild than before it. (But on the plus side, it doesn't leak any more. :smile:) I would like it tighter. Plan to have another go at it this winter.
Click to expand...

After reading this thread, perhaps I had it too tight before the rebuild, and now it's just right. But it felt better when it was tighter. Now it feels like the car has a mind of it's own just a bit.
 
Snowkilts said:
After reading this thread, perhaps I had it too tight before the rebuild, and now it's just right. But it felt better when it was tighter. Now it feels like the car has a mind of it's own just a bit.
Click to expand...

I know the purists will label me a blasphemer but my TR3 was always hunting, so much that I knew I had to do something. It just was not safe. I installed the Moss steering rack conversion this summer (along with new springs, Koni shocks, poly bushings, etc) and I am so happy with it. I've had the car for over 25 years, went through the steering long ago using standard parts and methods and it was a little better but still hunted. With the steering rack it is very tight. The down side I think the turning radius might be a bit larger now, but I can't really be sure. This hasn't been as issue but that part does seem different. The more modern technology (I'm sorry to say) is simply superior to the old steering box - but it isn't stock. I'll run for cover now.
 
mt10flyer said:
I know the purists will label me a blasphemer but my TR3 was always hunting, so much that I knew I had to do something. It just was not safe. I installed the Moss steering rack conversion this summer (along with new springs, Koni shocks, poly bushings, etc) and I am so happy with it. I've had the car for over 25 years, went through the steering long ago using standard parts and methods and it was a little better but still hunted. With the steering rack it is very tight. The down side I think the turning radius might be a bit larger now, but I can't really be sure. This hasn't been as issue but that part does seem different. The more modern technology (I'm sorry to say) is simply superior to the old steering box - but it isn't stock. I'll run for cover now.
Click to expand...

I'm planning to do most of that stuff this winter, minus the rack. We'll see what happens.
 
And that's why I adjust zero-lash. The OEM gearbox will tighten to work great with no play...but it will never park as easily as a rack will.
 
CJD said:
And that's why I adjust zero-lash. The OEM gearbox will tighten to work great with no play...but it will never park as easily as a rack will.
Click to expand...

Best TR-3 steering I ever drove was a TR-4 rack adapted to the 3...

Hey Yoda - like the TR-2 - I had a 54 for awhile - RHD long door.

TR-2.jpg
 
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