Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
OK, the electrical gremlins have struck again. And this one is as bizarre as any of the rest. Last evening drove over to some friend's house. All was normal when I parked. Several hours later came out to leave, turned the key in the ignition and NOTHING. Red light did not come on. Pushed the start button and, again, nothing. So, opened the bonnet to see if somehow the battery had become disconnected. No! While in the engine compartment, with the ignition ON pushed the button on the solenoid and the starter activated and began turning the engine but the engine did not start. Immediately turned the ignition OFF. No effect, starter still turning the engine with out it lighting off. Only way I could stop it was to disconnect the battery which I did. This was about 11:00PM so I closed the bonnet and, being only about 1/2 mile from home, walked home. Plan to get towed to the house this AM and will begin troubleshooting. Anyone with any idea as to where to start would be appreciated. For disclosure, yesterday around noon I replaced the fuel sending unit but I don't see how that would have anything to do with anything.:confusion:
-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
TR2/3/3A Another Electrical Problem
- Thread starter BobbyO
- Start date
Share this page
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I think you've got a "twofer". The first problem was not getting power through the ignition switch; then when you mashed the button on the solenoid, the solenoid plunger bound up or the contacts welded.
Most likely, a sharp rap on the solenoid will free it up and solve the issue with the starter not stopping. But it's probably best to replace it anyway.
For the other problem, first I'd try the headlights. If they work, most likely your ignition switch has gone south or the wire from the headlight switch to the ignition switch. Otherwise, you need to get out your test light (or voltmeter/DMM) and do some detective work.
Since you already know there is power where the brown wire attaches to the solenoid, I would check at 'A' on the control box (leaving the headlight switch on). If nothing there, there is a problem in the circuit to/from the ammeter or the ammeter itself.
If 'A' is OK, check 'A1'. Nothing here means the control box is bad. If 'A1' is hot, then it's the wire from it to the headlight switch.
All of this assumes you have original wiring, etc. Once you've identified the general area, dig into that area in more detail until you isolate the point where there is power on one side and not on the other. Usually it's just a bad connection somewhere, but they aren't always obvious to the casual observer, hence the test light.
Most likely, a sharp rap on the solenoid will free it up and solve the issue with the starter not stopping. But it's probably best to replace it anyway.
For the other problem, first I'd try the headlights. If they work, most likely your ignition switch has gone south or the wire from the headlight switch to the ignition switch. Otherwise, you need to get out your test light (or voltmeter/DMM) and do some detective work.
Since you already know there is power where the brown wire attaches to the solenoid, I would check at 'A' on the control box (leaving the headlight switch on). If nothing there, there is a problem in the circuit to/from the ammeter or the ammeter itself.
If 'A' is OK, check 'A1'. Nothing here means the control box is bad. If 'A1' is hot, then it's the wire from it to the headlight switch.
All of this assumes you have original wiring, etc. Once you've identified the general area, dig into that area in more detail until you isolate the point where there is power on one side and not on the other. Usually it's just a bad connection somewhere, but they aren't always obvious to the casual observer, hence the test light.
Randall, thanks. I think I had a twofer also. I disconnected the starter wire from the solenoid so I could reconnect the battery to do some testing. I then connected the starter wire and that problem had gone away. I then did a lot of testing with no results but after I got the car home my neighbor did some poking around and found one of the white wires at the fuse box appeared to be loose. He put it on securely and the problem was fixed. I made doubly sure that wire was not going to get loose again and should have fun with the car. Until the next time, of course.