...and then she won't start !

[Bruce B]

I'm having problems with my '65 BJ8. The car runs fine until I stop the engine after a long run. If I let her rest a while (say 10 to 20 mins), she won't start again. It's like the battery is flat - she'll barely turn over. Then all of a sudden, eveything is okay again. She turns over fine and starts right away.

Anyone got any ideas what's going on ? Could it be a battery/starter motor connection that's somehow temperature related ? If so, where?

Thanks.

Desperatly, Bruce !!

 

[John Kuzman]

I had the same problem a few years ago. Turned out to be a bad coil.

 

[Mac]

Bruce, I', dealing with much the same problem with my BJ7. With mine it's like the battery is nealry dead, then after hitting the start button a number of times, it just takes off, turns over fine and starts. I'm thinking there is a component that is showing too much resistance once the car is warm. I ordered a new solenoid and new brushes for the starter, however the problem, I guess, could also be the battery cut- off switch as well. Mac

 

[bradal]

Bruce: Battery cut-off and coil are both good suggestions, here. You can wire around the battery cut-off very easily by just taking that cable from the front of the car and connecting it directly to a good chassis ground somewhere; thereby bypassing the switch. If that solves the warm starting problem, then you need a new switch. The only good way to check the coil that I know of is by substituting a new coil in place of the old one. Let us know what you find out here. AL Bradley

 

[Blonde Healey Girl]

Bruce, You can take your battery to most autopart stores and they can load test your battery. Coil can get hot and quit but would not effect spinning the engine over. Check back through the forum. Do a search on "solenoid". There were some great suggestions mentioned earlier.
Good luck!

 

[Dave Russell]

Bruce,

it sounds like you may have a high resistance connection in the starter circuit. When you try to start, the bad connection will not permit enough current to flow. The high resistance connection will heat up which expands the metal & temporarily tightens the connection & the car starts. I have had loose battery connections that you could actually hear sizzle when trying to start.

If you hold the start long enough, even though nothing is happening, The connection may heat up & work.

The next time that it fails to turn over, feel for warm connections. Battery clamps, both terminals of the battery switch, battery to solenoid connection, solenoid to starter connection.

Just a long shot but easier than meters & replacing parts.
D

 

[catfood]

I can add one, somewhat obscure, possibility the list. My BN1 had similar problems. I tried all the obvious fixes and eventually gave up and took it into the shop (Cape International). They came across something they had never experienced before. The starter ring had moved out of true on the flywheel causing the teeth to be very tight against the starter on one side of the rotation and loose on the other. The net effect was that the engine seemed to speed up and slow down when turned on the starter. It was fine once it fired but it continued to deteriorate until it got to the stage where the starter couldn't turn the engine. Of course this drag caused all sorts of components to heat up due to the unusual load going through them which led to a lot of false 'clues'.

 

[Pete Haburt]

Bruce;
My 61 BT7 was doing the same thing. I noticed when firing up for first time this spring, which took alot of cranking, that the battery switch got pretty hot.
So I took it apart, drilled the grommet type rivets out, and cleaned out the sand and dirt,sanded contact areas with 180 grit paper, greased with silicone tuneup grease, and reassembled. It hasn't done the dead battery act since. I did not know of a source for the grommet type rivets, so I used the small screws that hold it to the bracket to reassemble.
Pete H
NEOAHC

 

[Mac]

Bruce, Here's an update on my situation that may help. The high resistance I suspected wasn't the solenoid (though it never hurts to have a new one installed which I now do), it turns out that the battery cut-off switch is the culprit. The switch is just not making a solid contact everytime I start the car. Also the switch felt warm which was a good indication that it wasn't making a solid contact to ground. Mac

 

[Blonde Healey Girl]

My 60 BT7 did not come with a battery switch (PO option)Liking the safety aspect of the switch.(Great thing to turn off when you smell wires smoldering) And not worried about concours. I bought one from the boat store and installed it below the battery where the correct switch belongs. It even has a big plastic key thats removable in the OFF position. (Real theft deterent here..)All for $20.00

 

[Gary Lloyd]

A lot of times with different cars this would be a typical situation of the starter bushings being worn!! When it is hot, they expand,and allows the armature to drag!! If all else fails, check this out!! GOOD LUCK!!!

 

[healeygal]

Last November or so, I was having problems with my car not starting after having been driven for a while (altho' twice, by the time the AAA tow truck got to the scene, it started right up), and also dying out while driving down the road. It turned out to be the master switch ground wire to the point side of the coil (not sure if that's the proper description/terminology).

Anyway, it was dangling and intermittently touching bare metal, causing major problems and a big mystery. Even though my mechanic finally solved the problem, got lots of help and suggestion from the BCF, with a couple of people saying they eliminate that wire entirely. Mine's been reconnected, but I will certainly know where to look the next time the problem arises - on the shelf in a little cubbyhole way in the back of the trunk! Hope you find the cure for your car's problem.

 

[Bruce B]

I'm really indebted to all that replied. You've given me lots to do on a sunny Chicago Sunday !

Thanks. Bruce