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TR2/3/3A and the radiator was leaking.

sp53

Yoda
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I went out to start my tr3 and the radiator was leaking. Does anyone know a good way to re- round out the lower brass round piece where the rubber hose fits? This radiator might be too old to fix. I am looking at those aluminum radiators, but I am kinda of a purist and want an original radiator with the crank hole that can be fixed. Anyone have an original tr3 radiator they want to let go for a fair price?

Thanks steve
 
After my little OOPS with a floor jack, the local radiator shop was able to bend both the lower tank and the outlet tube back into shape. I opted for a new core with no crank hole, but they could have installed the hole as well.

My point is to check with a local shop. They can probably fix up what you have. Result might not be any cheaper than a new one, but will look more original.
 
There are 2 leaks, the one on the lower outlet and the other I cannot find. The round out was bent in and I had to tighten the clamp so much to stop it that now I do not trust it. The other only happens when I pressurize the system with the radiator cap. The leak is small, but I cannot find it. I took the radiator out and put and pipe extension and a couple of hoses and looped them together on the radiator and then filled it, but it only leaks when I put the cap on tight. I went around it with a flash light and cannot see the leak; it must be coming from one of the inner tubes or perhaps at the crank hole.

Randall makes a good point about taking it to a shop, and I will try that later to see what they want. Or I might pick up a cheap pressure tester and see if it is coming from the center hole piece and try and fix that. This is the radiator I took apart and rodded out and that center crank hole looked rusty.

Because the leak is so small, I am tempted to put stop leak in, but I feel that is only a band aid.
 
CIMG0402.jpgI have one that looks good, but not tested. Shipping might be a bunch from this side of the planet.
Wayne
Lets go with $125 plus shipping.
CIMG0403.jpgCIMG0404.jpg
 
Yeah, I think I would use a shop. If you could pin-point the leak it may be an easy fix, but it takes me a couple days to do what my radiator shop can knock out in 3 hours.
 
Yes that is the direction I am headed after I consider the shipping cost of sending a radiator across the country, mostly because the cores are probably at the end of their life, and I would scape them anyway. What I really want is a nice top tank with the Covington Decal in good shape. Mine had a couple of pin holes in it and the decal was shot. That way I could get a new core with a crank hole in it plus a decal and I would not worry if I drove over to Idaho or something. Randall is correct that will cost about 400.00 to have made.

I did fix the pin holes in my top tank and I am pretty sure the little leak that happens under pressure is in the crank hole, and I still might go after the leak. I almost purchased a pressure tester and was going to go after the leak in my shop sink. However, in all actuality that radiator is old and thin.

Locally we have the one shop that still fixes the old stuff, and I have done business with them for years, but what is funny I went out and borrowed some rodding out rods to fit my radiator and he let me have some, but I think I might have upset him doing it that way. Perhaps it is my pride that I do not want to take it out there or maybe I feel bad about putting him in an odd situation having to loan out his stuff.

I am probably going to save my allowance and try and find a nice top tank then take it out to my maybe old buddy Cliff at the one local shop, and have him build me one with the hole. That way he wins and so do I.
steve
 
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