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American Racing Lemans wheels

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ylwtr6

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I am thinking of putting a set of American Racing Lemans wheels on the TR6. Does anyone have these....and if so could you post some pictures.
 
Both the the Lemans and Libra AM wheels are classics. Extremely hard to find (that means pricey) and if you break one, even harder to find a replacement.

I'm with you, I really like the look, but never found a set below $1000 so don't own them.
 
There is a picture of Lemans wheels in the Gallery. The problem with the Lemans wheels on a tr6 is clearance to the upper A frame. Most of the ones i have had were scraped up pretty good in that area. The 15x6 was proper for a tr6 and there was a 5.5" version. The problem with silverstones is they are a tube type wheel. I can hook you up with a set of magnesium 15x5 silverstones but it will set you back around $1000. Bob
 
bob67bgt said:
The problem with silverstones is they are a tube type wheel.
Click to expand...

Bob, I have been running a set of Silverstones on my TR250 for several years with tubeless tires. However it is necessary to properly clean the inside of the rim and paint the area with a good epoxy. This seals the pores in the magnesium casting. I haven't had any problems with this arrangement.



















'
 
Frank, I was lucky enough to have one go down (running tubeless)while running the interstate! By the time i got it pulled over the tire was just off from the bead and ready to start distroying the rim.(plus i could have crashed and burned!) My daughter was running a set of 14" silverstones on her mgb and did not realise one was soft. When entering from a on ramp at speed the tire broke from the wheel bead and she spun in front of traffic. Lots of people get away with stuff like running no tube in a wheel designed for tubes. Not me...anymore! There is a reason saftey beads were put on wheels when tubes were starting to be replaced with tubeless tires. I hope your set up works for you and you dodge as many bullets as required. It just takes one to mess up your day. Bob
 
Yes, That and shortening the upper A frame bolts and triming (at your own risk) the upper A frames. On a full lock turn they will dig into the wheel. Also the tr4a ran a different part in the steering assemmbly.On the back of the hub-kingpin assembly you will see what looks like a bolt and large washer. This keeps the wheel from turning too far. The ones from a tr4a are adjustable.(the hole in the large washer is not in the center)This can be used to limit the amount that you can turn the steering wheel. I hope the way i wrote this makes sence. Also its the front half of the upper A that gives the problem. I have not run spacers so i can not advise just how much would be the best. Bob
 
Ineresting Bob said his rubs at the front, because mine rubbed at the rear upper a-arm and needed to be trimmed to avoid rubbing. The sharp corner of the arm just needs to be filed or cut off. All is takes is removing a triangle with about +-1/4" legs. The usual point of interference is at the outer edge of the inside of the wheel.

If you use original bolts, the length should be OK. If you use hardware store bolts, they might need to be trimmed or reversed so the head is rear to front to eliminate fouling. I also used 1/8" spacers up front.

YMMV but this is what I needed to do on mine.

BTW, on my TR4A, the steering stop is concentric so, not adjustable.
 
Maybe the tr4 has the adjustable steering stops. I thought it was the 4A. Also we have a answer to the spacer size needed. This place always has great info. Bob
 
PeterK said:
BTW, on my TR4A, the steering stop is concentric so, not adjustable.
Click to expand...
That's odd. Moss shows it should be the same part as TR2-4, and they were definitely offset for adjustment.

While safety beads are an improvement, IMO they had nothing to do with tubeless tires except that they are both safety improvements and happened only several years apart. Tube-type tires are even more prone to sudden deflation than tubeless tires are (hence the term "blow out") and will walk off the rim just as fast.

If you want "safe", drive a Volvo!
 
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