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Aluminum Shroud Repairs

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LanceLyon

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Does anyone have any experience with repairs to the aluminum shrouds? I have done my repairs to the drivetrain and running gear, and now it's time to begin the work on the body and frame. As I pull off the fenders, there is a lot of aluminum oxide (aluminum rust) present, some holes through the exposed portions of the shrouds, and portions of the attachment flanges that are simply no longer there. My use of the search tool didn't turn up anything.

What techniques can be used to restore these areas? Is there an aluminum brazing or welding technique? Can a reinforced body filler be used in areas of pinholes? Of course I'm assuming that not everyone on this forum simply sends this stuff out!

I'm afraid that I don't have the budget to replace the pieces with new ones, and the process is as rewarding as driving the finished project.

HELP!
 
Hi Lyon there are several ways to repair the shrouds and I think I have used all of them on mine.
1. Tig weld (heliarc) any splits or damaged areas. AC with continous high frequency. You can use a mig welder but you cannot control the heat as well as with a tig torch.
2. You can cut out the bad piece and use a pneumatic flanging tool to make a flange on the cut edge and make a repair piece you can then either spot weld or Tig the repair panel back in; just remember not to let it get to hot or it will warp. Weld a little and let it cool. Take your time and make sure the repair piece fits the contour exactly so you won`t need much body filler at all.
3. Flush riveting. You use small 1/16 or 3/32 aluminum rivets with a countersunk head and drill and dimple the rivet holes; fit the patch into the hole and use a pneumatic rivet gun or squeezer to set the rivet.

If you don`t have access to a sheet metal roll, brake and shear it takes some work but you can do it yourself, the work is rewarding and like sex, half the fun is just getting there. Skip
 
Thanks, Skip! I've been looking for an excuse to add a TIG welder to my shop, and now I have it!

I'm not familiar with the pneumatic flange tool. I've heard of the hand-operated version; any experience with that?
 
Hi Lyon. Most Healey's need some repair work on the shrouds, usually the rear shroud. Mine needed work around the rear tail lights, and around the wheel wells. I took it to a local welding shop that did aluminum repairs, (not all shops do, ask around). Make sure you tell them you'll ground flush the welds, they usually don't and just add enough weld to hold the peices together. You need extra material added, to hold together. The cost was minimal compared to purchasing a Tig welder. I think it was about $75.
 
I have been told by my panel beater and others that gas welding does the best job. Something about less future cracks and that is how the Jensen factory did it anyway. The biggest issue with the gas welding, though is finding the optimum gogles for aluminium. Navy/Air Force suplus is good if you can find them.
 
Hi Lyon a pneumatic flanger is an air powered sort of clamp with matching jaws that produce a step down on the edge of the cut so that the patch piece lays flat with the surface of the original part. I then use cleco`s to hold the part in place and weld it in in small steps. Dave is right you set your machine on AC with the high frequency start set on continuous and use argon for sheilding gas. If you have never done this before get some scrap and practice, practice, practice untill you are comfortable. Then practice some more. Don`t use helium as you will get to much penetration. My welding machine is a 175 amp Lincoln and I love it. Miller also makes a good machine called an Econo Tig. Either machine will cost around 1,200 bucks. I have collected all my tools from 30 years of restoring antique aircraft. I couldn`t throw away enough money on them so I did a pair of Healeys too am I a glutton for punishment or what. All of these tools are quite an investment just ask my wife so unless you really want to do it yourself you might want to look into what a body shop will charge. Me I just enjoy doing it. Skip
 
For small areas I have used a product available in GB under the name LUMIWELD, it is very much like using solder, it comes as a kit with stainless steel wire brush and a stirring rod, you just need to supply the small gas torch. Take care in using it, once the ali is upto temperature it can be too easy to over do it.

Bob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Once you have successfully? welded and warped there is particular auto body filler that is used for aluminum work. It is called Z-GRIP. Have not used it personally but it was recommended to me by a trusted body shop owner. Bob
 
Hello!
My name is Christian Werner from Germany, i am a new happy owner of an Austin Healey 3000 Bj7. I hope you can get through my broken english.
I bought the car a few month ago and now i am starting to rebuilt it. It is in a good condition but needs a bit body work and new paint everywhere. Now i have dismantled the car and i want to start the body work.
I need to repair the shroud where i have to weld a bit. I want to weld it with Mig and i just want to know if you use a special aluminium welding material. I have looked at many welding material sellers where i found different aluminium alloys e.g. AlMg 5 or AlMg3 etc.. Do i have to take car of the differend alloys or isn't it neccesarry.
I hope someone can help me, thanks!

I have looked at many austin healey forums but i must say that this is the only where are real specialists.

Christian
 
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