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Alternator conversion questions

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Jim Lee

Jedi Trainee
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I am in the process of replacing my TR3's generator with an alternator and am concerned about how close the new alternator is to the exhaust manifold. What is the best approach to trying to protect it from all that heat?

Also, I've seen various papers on what to do with the wires in my soon to be obsolete control box/regulator but I am having a hard time matching up the wire colors mentioned with the wire colors I see. I'd like to get some advice on what to do with those wires even if my colors are off. For example following directions using the control box's labels.
I do know that I will be connecting wires which will be carrying much if not all of the cars electrical power. I am
kind of nervous.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
 
OK, I think I can help you out here. If you go to Advance Auto's Site you will find the schematic for the TR3.

I read the instructions from the VTR site, and this is what I got from it.
1. There are two black wires on the voltage regulator (VR), that are hooked to the "E" terminal...they get spliced together.
2. There are two yellow wires on the "D" terminal, the smaller wire (which goes to the ignition light) on that terminal and the Yellow/Green wire from the "F" terminal get spliced together.
3. The large Yellow wire from the "D" terminal, the Brown/White from the "A" terminal, and the Brown/Blue from the "A1" terminal all get spliced together.

There should now be no wires on the VR. You can now use it for a paper weight. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

Hope this helps.
 
Jim, did you sort out the running/starting problem? One thing at a time you know.
 
Nope. But interestingly enough I found that I did more damage to my wiring than I thought I had when I mismatched the red wire that gives power to the lights on the passenger side front. Pulled the dash panel so I could get to the wires on the back without breaking a bone and there was more frying taken place than I had realized.

So I am hoping that my replacing wires and pulling any suspect ones out will give me a consistent spark. The last time I was getting a spark and then not getting a spark even
with 12 volts going all the way to the hot point. I would get a nice blue line coming out of the coil and then nothing from the coil. I am hoping that my slow and careful wire replacement is going to make a difference with the mysteries
of my ignition ocming and going. When I do get it running it
runs fine but seeing the ignition coming and going for no apparent reason my best guess right now is that it would work, then heat up and not work.

Also in the course of installing the new alternator I removed the carbs and they look very clean.

Hopefully I should get the carbs back on and give it a try tomorrow.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee
 
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