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Alsa Killer Chrome System

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Richard Dickinson

Jedi Trainee
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In the June issue of Auto Restorer magazine there is a review of Alsa Killer Chrome system. It's a three part spray on finish that's supposed to give a chrome like finish. The article says that it's more like highly polished aluminum. I'm wondering if it might be a way to refinish the aluminum cockpit trim. Anyone have any experience with it?
 
Hey Richard,
As opposed to trying the system you described, why not remove the anodizing and then polish your cockpit trim ? That's what I did and looks great. I used 400 and 600 grit wet sand paper to remove the anodizing. You can then polish it on buffing wheels on a bench grinder/buffer or have it professionally polished. Not too difficult, just go through the steps using the correct type of polishing compounds and you will be happy with the results.
Regards,
Mike
 
Yes that will look nice, However, you will be required to constantly repolish it by hand to remove the natural oxidation. A clear coat might be applied while the ongoing oxidation is virtually un detectable.Fwiw--Keoke
 
Jay Lenos video makes it look pretty good, my concern also was durability. If you polish it and clear coat it you still will be redoing it in a couple of years. Anyone known what it costs to have them polished and reanodized?
 
Nice short term solution, if not for the long haul. But as others have said here, how durable is it. Maybe for chrome pieces like bezels, handles, etc., where they are in the interior or more or less protected from the outside elements or away from areas susceptible to corrosion (ie., sills), this will last for a period. Still, you can tell the difference between something that is chromed vs. this spray on solution.

Even if it remains durable for aluminum sills, the gleam is different for aluminum than on existing chrome plating. More glossy is chrome than aluminum and there is a pattern on those aluminum sills which differentiates, or should I say, gives off a subtle two tone effect. Spraying that chrome might leave a mono gleam effect.

My aluminum sills were pretty bad, but I got away with using a dental tool to pick away the blackened corrosion, then wire brushing, then polishing.

Couple of record shots showing the strike, which wasn't as bad as the sills..

PS. I know this should be under a seperate post, but if anyone wants to show me how the piping terminates at the top, I would appreciate it very much.

Paul
AustinHealeyDriverSideDoorStrike3.jpg


AustinHealeyRefurbDriverSideDoorStrikeWPiping2.jpg
 
Hey Richard,
Have done two cars the way I described. One BN6 and one BN2. First one I did myself on a buffing wheel. Second one I had done and seems like I spent about $100 to get it polished but not re-anodized. Instead, I put on a special wax called "Liquid Glass" (cost about $20/can) which has worked out better than spraying on a clear coat. On the BN6 the clear coating would eventually chip or wear away if you drive with one arm draped over the door and then you would have to strip it and do it all over again. The BN2 has held up well with the Liquid Glass and if I have to repolish,just clean up with aluminum polish and then put the LQ back on.
Regards,
Mike
 
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