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Almost time to put the MG away for the winter

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mirceme

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It's been a great September in SE Wisconsin but as winter approaches, I face the fact that it will soon be time to store the MG for the winter.

Since this is our first year with the MG, I would appreciate any and all advice on the steps needed to winterize and store the MG for the frosty winter.

I have located a storage facility near by (someones indoor riding stable... covered, dry, but uninsulated)

Thanks for your input
 
NO....Say it isn't so!!!

I just put 4 ounces of Stabile or other gas stablizer in the tank, fill it up with gas and other fluids(especially coolant), inflate the tires and carefully park it. A trickle charger for the battery, disconected from the car (especially if the cover does not have adequate ventilation)should keep it for the winter. Some people like to put the car on stands, but I think if you go an move the car a couple of feet every few weeks to keep the tires and bearings from developing flat spots, they should be OK. Move the cover too, to keep it from sticking to the paint.

I usually back it out and wash it occasionally, but since you have a cover, you may not do that, but if you do wash it before you put it away, make sure it is completley dry before you cover it...I recommend a 30 minute "spin dry"... take it out for a spin to dry it ;-)

Bruce
 
Maybe one other thing to keep in mind, if you store your car on the ground and move it every so often no problem, but if you put it up on stands like I do, I live in upstate NY and to say the least things get cold in the winter around here, I'm sure the same as you in WS, but once or twice a week I go out to the garage and even if I don't start the car I work the clutch pedal a few times. I've never had this problem, but I have heard of cars being stored over the winter and with moisture problems the pressure plate freezing to the fly wheel! Spring can't get here soon enough, good luck /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif MACK
 
The past few years I've left my 'B at home while I head for college for 9 months. We luckily have a barn in the back of my parent's house, so I'd park it in there. Here's what I did:

1) Top up the gas tank and add storing-additive to keep the gas from congealing and to keep moisture from building up inside the tank.
2) Change the oil.
3) Jack it up and remove all the wheels, replacing them with wood blocks under the springs. I wrapped the greasy hubs with plastic bags to protect from the dusty environment.
4) Remove the battery to store inside the house. I forced my parents to trickle-charge every few weeks or so.
5) Cover it up with a large canvas cover, laying an old sheet under the canvas to protect the paint.

This is a huge pain in the ass, but after all this preparation you don't have to roll the tires or anything. I've also heard you shouldn't start the engine every once in a while, which I personally thought would be good for it. Anyone know why that's bad?

After coming back 9 months later, my lovely would surprisingly start first try (after adding the battery, of course)! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

If anyone wants to add, subtract, or comment on my method, please do.

--Adam
 
Hi All. Sorry to hear your winter is starting. Well here in OZ I am just getting the B ready for our summer. I will give you all a though when out having fun in the B. Good luck with your winter pack up. Regards John. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
Adam, your storage procedure sounds ideal. I think the reason some people say not to start it periodically, is that if you don't run it long enough to warm everything up, you don't burn off any condensation in the oil, and could actually worsen things. Just a guess on my part.
I just do the Stabil trick in a full tank of gas, run it long enough to get the treated gas into the entire fuel system, change the oil, and store it in my trailer over the winter. So far it has fired right up in the spring, and drives just fine.
This year, I'm driving mine until the snow flies and the salt trucks come out. As a matter of fact, I just ordered a new set of tires that I will have to break in prior to storage!
Jeff
 
Thanks all for the input....unfortunately, I have to store the B off site in a storage facility that I won't be able to access from Mid-October to Mid-April. This presents a bit of a problem from the stand point of working the clutch or brakes or moving the car back and forth to help out the tires.

Based on this additional information, any other suggestions.

Tom
 
I think that everybody has their own storage procedures and rituals, and that they are all correct for their particular situation. You will eventually come up with your own. Mine happens to be:
Remove anything that I will be working on over the winter (this year--recovering seats!).
Up on jackstands
Full tank of gas with Stabil
disconnect battery
fog cylinders
 
In that case, I would get some jack stands and get it off the ground an inch or so. Jackstands are not very expensive and can prevent tire and wheel bearing issues.

If you want to be really carefull, in addition to changing the oil and adding the gas additive (which should both get to where they need to be on the drive from your place to the storage facility if it's at least 10 to 15 miles), you could flush and replace the brake and clutch fluid. Sounds like overkill, but that will ensure "moist" fluid isn't in the system.

Speaking of moist, if it were me, I would flush and refill the cooling system with new coolant mixed per the instructions to give the maximum amount of freeze protection. Obviously, you want to keep the thing from freezing, but if the coolant is going to sit for several months, I would think you would want the purest coolant possible without contaminants and corrosive substances that form in normal use.

You could also get a pair of dessicant packs for the footwells to eliminate excess moisture. Also, make sure all the fittings have been greased. Of course, a good wash and wax as well as some kind of rubber treatment on the tires would be good. Finally, big garbage bags over the tires and wheels, and covering as much of the brakes as possible would be nice (very easy if you've got it on stands).
 
I am not planning to put my "B" up for the winter as we just get a bit of rain usually.

But a trick used by some sailors is to put a low wattage light bulb in the boat on a thermostat or timer. This lets the light come on when it gets chilly. The heat from the light is enough to help drive condensation out. IT might work for youur "B" in youru chilly climate
 
Two foreign car mechanics (who don't know one another) both told me to drive the car once a week or so in winter when roads are plowed and clear. It keeps everything running smoothly. They both said when MG's are stored and not driven for weeks to months at a time the electrical dries out...thus, problems occur when spring rolls around. In other words, "If you don't use it you lose it"...so I plan to drive my MGB GT on nice days throughout the winter. It'll be kept in the garage in between jaunts. Although it's a 1969 it's in excellent condition, runs great.
 
[ QUOTE ]
the electrical dries out...

[/ QUOTE ]

OMG, are you freaking serious? Exactly what in the electrical system can "dry out"??

Guess I can't talk, with maybe 25 rain days and no snow days I really do like living in California.

Off to pick up my new-'used' hardtop to make the rainy days DRIVING days!!
 
[ QUOTE ]
OMG, are you freaking serious? Exactly what in the electrical system can "dry out"??

[/ QUOTE ]

Sounds like a GOOD excuse to drive it year round! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Seriously, there is nothing in the electricals than can "dry out" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif

Tires get flat spots, lubricants settle, brake fluid attracts water...but electrics don't "dry out"

Around these parts we don't need an excuse to drive it year 'round. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

But seriously, I don't understand putting them up on blocks and giving up driving for the winter. On the other hand, I do understand using winter for an excuse to do major service as you should loose a minimum of "driving days".

Maybe it's just my foolish self, but, I remember, in my youth, driving around in the snow, with the top down and the heater doing everything it could at Christmas time.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Mike
 
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