Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif I'm trying to get my AH BJ8 restarted after a long layoff in the garage and I am having trouble getting a spark. I've installed a new battery and checked all of my wiring up to the ignition switch and then onward to the coil. I've installed a new coil (Napa). The car turns over fine but I can't seem to get a spark from the coil. I can measure 12V from the negative post side of the coil and I've got good continuity from the positive post on the coil all the way back to the ground wire on the trunk battery switch. I'm trying to test the coil by removing the coil wire from the distributor cap and holding it near the engine block while the car is turned over. I'm looking for an intermittent blue spark. I can't seem to get it. Am I missing something simple or is this just an improper way to test the operation of a coil? Does anyone know a good book that details the proper efforts and checks for getting a car back on the road that has been put away (and in all likelihood was put away with any prep for storage) for about 7 years?
-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
AH restarting after 7 years no driving - coil
- Thread starter peteatgr
- Start date
Share this page
AndrewMawson
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Sounds like the points are not opening & closing properly.
A/ With the ditributor cap off, put a small 12v bulb across the points and turn the engine over slowly (with the ignition on) As the points open the bulb should light dimly (it's is series with the coil) and when they close the bulb should go out.
B/ Turn the engine until the points are closed. Turn the ingition on and open them with with a bit of plastic - as they open you should get a spark 1/4" long AT LEAST from the coil HT to ground. If not suspect the capacitor ('condenser' in old parlance) or the way the bushes are assembled on the points spring pillar which should be in such a way that the sping is isolated from ground.
Good luck.
A/ With the ditributor cap off, put a small 12v bulb across the points and turn the engine over slowly (with the ignition on) As the points open the bulb should light dimly (it's is series with the coil) and when they close the bulb should go out.
B/ Turn the engine until the points are closed. Turn the ingition on and open them with with a bit of plastic - as they open you should get a spark 1/4" long AT LEAST from the coil HT to ground. If not suspect the capacitor ('condenser' in old parlance) or the way the bushes are assembled on the points spring pillar which should be in such a way that the sping is isolated from ground.
Good luck.
GregW
Yoda
Offline
Hi peteatgr,
Welcome to the forum. A simple possibility could be the battery switch in the trunk. The little blk/wht wire attached to it is an anti-theft device that grounds out the coil. Try disconnecting that wire at the switch and tape up the exposed wire so it won’t ground out and try starting again.
Welcome to the forum. A simple possibility could be the battery switch in the trunk. The little blk/wht wire attached to it is an anti-theft device that grounds out the coil. Try disconnecting that wire at the switch and tape up the exposed wire so it won’t ground out and try starting again.
Thanks to everyone. This is all really good stuff for a guy who is just getting back into all this.
Andrew - I am going to check the points (I have a new set I haven't installed yet and a new condensor also. They'll probably go in quite quickly now.)
Greg W - So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
zblu - Not sure I understand what you mean by the "capacitor wire on the coil". What rubber bushing? My coil has positive and negative wire posts and the socket in eh center for the insulated wire going to the distributor cap. The only capacitor/condensor that I know of is inside the distributor. Is that what you mean?
Thanks to all,
Pete
Andrew - I am going to check the points (I have a new set I haven't installed yet and a new condensor also. They'll probably go in quite quickly now.)
Greg W - So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
zblu - Not sure I understand what you mean by the "capacitor wire on the coil". What rubber bushing? My coil has positive and negative wire posts and the socket in eh center for the insulated wire going to the distributor cap. The only capacitor/condensor that I know of is inside the distributor. Is that what you mean?
Thanks to all,
Pete
tahoe healey
Yoda
Offline
Check the wire form the side of the distributer to the coil for good contact and the wire on the inside the distributer from there.(brown color and very flimsey). Also try another rotor to see if you have a problem with that bugger.
GregW
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
Greg W - So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep, if you look at the wiring diagram, the wire goes from the battery switch up to CB on the coil, then to the breaker. If the battery switch doesn’t open, you’ve got a straight shot to ground from the dizzy.
Greg W - So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yep, if you look at the wiring diagram, the wire goes from the battery switch up to CB on the coil, then to the breaker. If the battery switch doesn’t open, you’ve got a straight shot to ground from the dizzy.
Online
[ QUOTE ]
So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
Pete
[/ QUOTE ]
Pete--
Why not just cut the b/w wire at the coil and tape it off and eliminate the possibility of the switch being your problem.
After you get the car started replace the shutoff switch with a proper one--the originals are accidents waiting to happen. A search of the archives will give you info on good parts sources.
So that I understand the concept of the operation of the ground wire on the battery switch in the trunk - I should have continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "off" so that it disables the coil? And I should loose continuity through that wire when the battery switch is "on" so that it does not act as a ground for the coil when the motor is running?
Pete
[/ QUOTE ]
Pete--
Why not just cut the b/w wire at the coil and tape it off and eliminate the possibility of the switch being your problem.
After you get the car started replace the shutoff switch with a proper one--the originals are accidents waiting to happen. A search of the archives will give you info on good parts sources.
Radford
Jedi Knight
Offline
You might want to look at Tony Barnhills site. He has some great tips for rousing the long slumered.
The Autoist /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
The Autoist /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif