• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

AH 100 Best Options for front and rear suspension?

Share this page

C

christophe

Jedi Trainee
Offline
The front suspension is shot on my car and I think, currently, that is where i would like to start dumping money into the car.
So,

1. Shocks: Do most people rebuild the shocks or replace them? I typically work on mid sixties muscle cars, so this type of shock is entirely foreign to me. How difficult are they to rebuild? The only parts i see for them on the Moss website are heavy duty valves.

2. Front and Rear Springs: Any particular place i should order these parts from? Does anybody make a nice street performance front coil spring, or are they pretty much run of the mill replacements all around?

3. King Pins: Would someone please explain to me exactly what the kingpin does and why it so commonly needs to be replaced?


Thanks!
 
FWIW - my summary take:
1. White Post or Apple Hydraulics for rebuild. Putzke's Fahrspass for the 4-wheel Bilstein kit. IMHO the latter provides a better ride.
2. Moss for front and rear springs. Never heard of any aftermarket competition springs.
3. Moss - my question would be whether the king pins or bronze bushings are worn. Randy Forbes on this list does bushings if I recall.
Also - the steering bush at the bottom tends to wear out.
Flame away.
 
Thank you for the information!!! I had white post rebuild a couple of master cylinders for me a few years ago and they are pretty pricey. I can only imagine that they charge a pretty penny to rebuild the original shocks. The bilstein conversion might be the best route. My car is so far from original that changing out the original shocks for a conversion set should not be seen as blasphemy.

So generally it is just the bushing that wear out in the kingpin and that is all?
 
If you don't mind the cost, the telescopic shock conversion kit will give more modern performance. You'll need to disable the damping function in the original shocks and preferably have the fulcrum bushings remade in plastic to tighten them up. Shocks can be DIY rebuilt if you are mechanically inclined and have a lathe available. Some of the exchange rebuilt ones have difficulty with oil leaks.

You'll probably want to change out the bushings in the lower A arms if they haven't been done recently (can be a ***** of a job) and also the upper/outer arm bushes which can be replaced with a set of "negative camber" offset ones to improve geometry for radial tires. The thrust washers in the kingpins are available as needle roller bearings now which gives a slight decrease in steering effort.

Springs are usually pretty hard to begin with, I'd consider staying with the originals unless they are sagging or you want to change the ride height. Uneven front wheel arch heights are usually caused by sagging rear springs.

Get your stub axles crack tested too if you have them off to redo the king pin bushings, they are often cracked.

Andy.
 
I agree with Andy- while I haven't bought one of the Putzke kits yet, I spent some time around Udo at the Salt Flats last year as he worked tech for Steve Pike's streamliner record attempt, and he's a great guy and very knowledgeable. The kit looks very well engineered, and it's entirely reversible should originality become a desire in the future. And while you're rebuilding your front suspension, I found that replacing my tie rod ends and center link helped reduce steering effort, as my old ones on my bn4 were very tired. And check your idler arm for play- it can make a knocking sound over bumpy roads and leave you scratching your head to find the source. And rather than searching for performance springs, or cutting coils, just add some 1" lowering spacers between the lower spring pan and a-arms. I've done it and like it. Good luck!
 
Shocks: You've already received a couple of good recommendations for rebuilding shocks.

Springs: Competition springs, other suspension bits and brakes are available from https://www.bighealey.co.uk/. Not cheap, but excellent quality. Other than those, the standard springs from Moss are fine.

King pins: Unlike more modern cars, Healeys don't use ball joints in the front suspension. Except for the steering joints, all Healey suspension joints rotate in one axis only. The king pin allows the stub axle and front wheel to rotate left and right. There are sleeve bearings above and below the stub axle that often wear, but should be checked before just replacing them as they may not need it. Each lower A-arm has a bushing at the outer end that rotates up and down on threaded shafts at the bottom of the king pin. The upper A-arms have a bushing at the outer end that rotates up and down at the top of the king pin. As Andy said, that upper bushing can be replaced with an eccentric one to allow camber adjustment. That's a quick explanation, and others may say "You got it all wrong!"
 
Great replies! And John, thanks for taking the time to explain the kingpins! It makes perfect sense now. For me, looking at a picture of the parts, or at the parts assembled and covered in almost 60 years of grease, only goes so far. Until I actually disassemble something and have it laid out in front of me, I sometimes have a difficult time comprehending how it functions.
If i can get the stock units rebuild for around 400.00, then i will probably stick with them instead of using the bilsteins. There are many parts of this car that need attention and doing expensive upgrades can quickly take this from a reasonable rebuild to a money pit.
 
Second vote for Peter Caldwell. I have rebuilt shocks from Peter on my MGBGT and on my Dad's '53 100. Good value, good service.
 
Third vote for Peter Caldwell. He sent me 4 rebuilt shocks, I sent him my old ones as cores. Easy and affordable.
 
Back
Top