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Advice/inspiration on dealing with rust

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Hi Yeoman,
You were looking for inspiration in dealing with rust? How about this?

beforeafterrust.jpg


It was a Flintsones car, but that's why God invented welders and replacement rockers, castle sections,etc... The nice thing about Mig welding is that practice is the best teacher, you can get away without taking a class. If you have any spots that need a patch, you might want to do those areas before you tackle the springmounts.
But mostly, don't be scared! Many people would have thrown my car out, but like I said welders and replacement parts. Plus, once you're done you know how solid that metal REALLY is. You will have no worries about how much surface rust is inside those sound 'feeling' sections.
Good luck, I have the same job to do on the Bugeye project.
 
Thanks for the pictures.

Things are actually going pretty well over these past few days. I've done a few patches just getting ready to put in the two replacement panels. I think that going slowly and taking the time to be sure you're welding to clean metal no matter how much sanding and grinding and brushing and Dremelling it takes is the right method for me. The first patch I did was on the trunk floor, and it was 22 gauge steel, and looked horrible. Welding the 16 and 14 gauge around the spring hanger box is easy compared to that.

Two more questions:

I'll be sealing up the sill box and want to put something inside. Is there an American equivalent to Waxoyl? I'm thinking of using Rustoleum rust converter, and then Rustoleum rusty metal primer. The metal that's there is not rotten, but I'm sure there is some surface rust.

Second, I got impression from an earlier post on this thread that the way to go is to trim the replacement panels to fit the hole, rather than making the hole fit the panel. Is that how it's done?

Much appreciate the help here.
 
Hi Gang....
I am a bit suprised that a butt weld would be prefered over crimping the metal before welding.
Is it a convenience thing or is it no diffrence strenght wise. I also felt that the crimp helped reduce warping. I used a crimper when I worked on my MGA . It was alot of extra work....
confused.gif
 
I crimp but then I am a fan of gluing in non structural panels, ie. everything but the sills and associated parts
 
Pardon me for slipping over from the Healey Forum but your thread is pretty universal regarding bodywork renovation.

For cutting panels and removing rusted areas we always use a device called a plasma cutter which is very acurate and cuts a very neatline to weld in new panel or part panel sections. These are expensive items and unless you are doing this kind of thing for a living cannot really be justified, however in the UK they can be hired from Plant Hire Companies fairly cheaply, you might want to try it....
Best Wishes
Alan
 
Good idea BJ, I have never used one but they are great!! The reason for the butt weld, is because it leaves no place for water to get in!!
 
FWIW, in my opinion the Eastwood spot weld drill works well, and the cold galvanizing spray as a weld through primer does not.
 
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