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Adjusting End Float

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sp8

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I have read the service manual and I have searched through this Forum and I can't find a lot of details on how you adjust the end float on the front suspension after changing out the discs. The manual speaks in pretty broad terms and I can't really understand what it is telling me to do. Can any of you clearly describe how you adjust end float? I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks again,
 
Yes. there are a set of selectable shims that go between the cone shaped distance piece and the outer bearing. these shims are selected and installed until you can pull about 150Ft Lb of torque on the wheel nut and yet have virtually no drag on the bearing and no end play when the disk is moved in and out.That help you a bit.?---Keoke-AZ- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
Yoda to the rescue /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

I figure I'm the only Forum reader who didn't immediately know what "end float on the front suspension after changing out the discs" meant. I was digging through my shop data and got to the part where I was pointed at wheel bearings and... drum roll...

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif that Keoke guy had already posted the answer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif I gotta bookmark this end float stuff... and NOT in the SU section aaarrrgh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
 
IT Twere a bit of a gamble Velox without the word "Disk"I prolly would have passed.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Seems like you're shooting for about .003-.005" end-float, IIRC.

During the days between the supply of OEM shims and reproduction ones, I used to cut them out of brass shim stock; NOT fun.
 
Keoke,
That is an immense help! Your description is way clearer than anything else I've seen.

Thanks
 
[ QUOTE ]
Keoke,
That is an immense help! Your description is way clearer than anything else I've seen.

Thanks

[/ QUOTE ]


--------------------- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif-----Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif-AZ- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif--My Pleasure

OH! I forgot to leave you a "TIP" do all the initial set up with the parts "DRY". When you are satisfied with the set up then , put a light coat of grease on everthing,pack the bearings and put it back together. This makes life at the hub easier.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Seems like you're shooting for about .003-.005" end-float, IIRC.

During the days between the supply of OEM shims and reproduction ones, I used to cut them out of brass shim stock; NOT fun.

[/ QUOTE ]

Would you believe ZERO and I can feel 0.003" if its there.---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Seems like you're shooting for about .003-.005" end-float, IIRC.

During the days between the supply of OEM shims and reproduction ones, I used to cut them out of brass shim stock; NOT fun.

[/ QUOTE ]

Would you believe ZERO and I can feel 0.003" if its there.---Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
Wouldn't "zero" (cold) be too tight once the components reached operating temperature? That's why I run a little bit of clearance, so I'm at "zero" once things warm up.
 
Nope Randy, there does not seem to be a problem when its done this way. Maybe if you set "0" with a dial guage you might see some problem.--Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Nope Randy, there does not seem to be a problem when its done this way. Maybe if you set "0" with a dial guage you might see some problem.--Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
The complete official Healey workshop manual says no endfloat (as do you). I checked my complete official MGB manual, and it states .002-.004" (identical setup).

I guess since I had MGBs first, I'll always do it that way /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
What is the purpose of the distance piece? I've rebuilt my '60 BT7 front hubs and now the right hub goes back together fine, but the the left castle nut bottoms out with shims and the outer bearing races aren't touching yet, making lots of wobble in the wheel. If I take the distance piece out the bearings should press against each other like they do in American cars, shouldn't they?
 
Hi Darley, your reasoning seems logical, as I posed the same question about a year ago. The answer I was given(and I can accept) is that the whole assembly is a 'system' which strenghtens the total spindle/bearing assembly. By having the distance piece in there is is like multiplying the area of total load bearing surface. This way they might have been able to do with a smaller diameter spindle. That last statement is alittle weak for me as I don't see why , if spindle was of questionable strength, why not just make a bigger spindle. Only the brits would know! yet assuming that the spindles were not purpose built for just the Healey, maybe they could do with some strength enhancements. Now with the shims, the ideal is to get the proper number and thickness of shims in there to be able to wrench up the castle nut snug, where it makes the whole assembly snug yet does not put a preload on the bearing rollers. In this way you have a snug and smoothly rotating assembly, with no fear of overtighting on the bearing and 'NO' end play at all to cause looseness.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Dave C.
 
No they do not function like our American cars do.However there is another round disk shaped distance piece that fits at the inboard side of the axel it can look to the uninitiated as a machined step on the swivel axel but is a separate piece..With out this spacer also in place it would leave a void in the assembly such that the castle nut would bottom on the axel thread leaving the wheel loose on the bearings. The two distance pieces jointly funtion like a footing and collum in bridge design -laid on its side, when under compression they produce considerable additional strength and lock the bearing inner races in a fixed position but avoid preload on the rollers. Failure to torque the bearings correctly or fit the assembly up incorrectly will cause the bearings to freeze on the axel and litterly explode.--Keoke
 
Unless the '60 model's spindles were changed to BJ8's, the step that the seal rides against is built in. Start by taking out all the shims and see if the hub locks up. Are the bearings and races new?
 
On my 66 BJ8, the inner distance piece, upon which the seal rides, is a separate piece. As I'm cleaning up for reassembly, these pieces are noted to have minor rust pitting. My worry is that as the seal rotates about this piece, the pitting will wear the seal away. I've polished them up nicely, but the pitting remains. This is only a grease seal, and not under pressure. Is this pitting worrisome enough to justify new ones at $60.00 each?
 
NO Cutlass, but be sure and pack the seals thoroughly with a good hi temperature grease in the area where the spring resides. A very light grease coating is also recommended on the seal's lip--Fwiw--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
--- This way they might have been able to do with a smaller diameter spindle. That last statement is a little weak for me as I don't see why, if spindle was of questionable strength, why not just make a bigger spindle. Only the brits would know! yet assuming that the spindles were not purpose built for just the Healey, maybe they could do with some strength enhancements. ------

[/ QUOTE ]
Exactly -- The AH was built to a very tight budget. The spindles from the Austin A90 sedan were adapted to the AH to save money over purpose built parts. As was the original engine & many other parts. Using the sleeves in compression is a clever way to increase the spindle rigidity/strength.

Other cars with relatively larger spindles in proportion to car weight or intended use, whether purpose designed or by luck, do not need this strengthening.
D
 
Thanks guys. Keoke: You suggested earlier a 150 lb/ft figure for torquing the spindle nut to check for end float. My service manual says 40-70 lb/ft, the range allowing for placement of the cotter pin within the castle nut. Was your suggested figure just for checking the float, or is this a final setting?
 
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