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Adjusting clutch

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

Jedi Trainee
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Any advice on how to adjust the clutch while the car is up on jack stands. I just purchased this summer driver and the previous owner stated the clutch was new. I did drive it for a couple of miles before I put it up on jack stands to do a little preventive maintenance and the clutch seemed to catch a little high. I was just wondering if anyone has any special way of adjusting it while it's not on the ground. The seats and trans tunnel are out at this time so it would be very easy to get to.
 
More particulars, please. Which car, what brand clutch?
Not really aware of any "clutch adjustments", as such, on the Triumph after it hsd been installed in the car. You can fiddle with the control arm and look at your slave, but that's about it.


Bill
 
The only adjustment is in the three holes on the clutch arm. The top hole giving the most throw.
 
And if you have to resort to using anything but the middle hole, them something is wrong with your setup. Not necessarily bad, just wrong.


Bill
 
Sorry about not giving the make and model. It's a 61 TR3A. There is some kind of locknut and rod that comes out of the slave cylinder. I did read the manual and it did mention something about taking out the end play and such, but I was just wondering if anyone had any other suggestions. The main problem will be that the car is up on stands, so test driving it will have to wait for about a week or so. I have some front end parts on order and don't want to take it down until all the front end work is finished.
 
There is no adjustment there. Set the rod length to eliminate all but a little of the end play (per the manual) but any change in it's length just changes where in the potential slave stroke it moves... i.e. the stroke is the same no matter what the length of the arm.

You say it seems to 'catch a little high' -- interesting as the common complaint would be that it catches low. Maybe it's fine and you're just used to something different.
 
Hi Bluemiata90 Geo’s advice is sound and the manual is a big help and I would not fix it if it is not broke. I would like to add that Tr3 clutch hydraulics can be a real pain if the master cylinder has been adjusted because an improper adjustment can slightly engage the clutch. So for that reason if it working ok than leave it. What happens is the rod that comes out of the master cylinder is adjustable and can be turned out so much that all the play is removed and can actually engage the throw out bearing? If I remember right the books say do not mess with it, so be careful. First off it is important that the master cylinder works smoothly. The bore works best when it is highly polished, not honed. If the cylinder operates smoothly then you want about 3/8 inch of slop before anything happens on the rod at the pedal. The normal pedal should be about one inch from the top.
sp53
 
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