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Tips
Tips

Adjustable oil pressure relief

ChrisS

Jedi Knight
Offline
I want to make an adjustable oil pressure relief valve for the new engine I’m building and wanted to know if anyone had the details of it worked out so I don’t have to do my usual trial and error. Here is my plan, I’m going to change the plunger over to a ball bearing, cut the spring down (how much?) drill and tap the factory cap (1/4”-28), run a full tread socket head cap screw (length?) with a jam nut and brass washer through the cap, the jam nut will lock the adjustment screw and the washer will be the seal. On the inside of the cap I’ll attach a flanged nut and grind the OD down to fit the opening in the block, then this will thread on the end of the socket head cap screw, flange side to spring with some threads sticking through to center the spring. I’m sure it is simpler than this so tell me what I really need to do. Thanks.
 
Chris

I would check with Dave or Phil at APT, I beleive that they sell one that is adjustable.
 
Chris, I just happen to have one of those, if you want/need send me a PM with an address and it is yours.

What comes around goes around bud.
 
Chris,

What are the advantages of an adjustable relief? Just curious.
 
The advantage is that you can adjust your oil pressure downwards, if you have to much pressure. Running a higher pressure then needed reduces engine power.
 
The other advantage or the adjustable valve is that the ball bearing is less likely to get jammed open or closed in response to debris. Debris is a serious problem with the A-series in the Mini since the engine and gearbox share the same oil.

I can't find the link I thought I had for DIY adjustables. Your approach sounds fine. I'd add to it that in the Mini community the approach is to use the Cooper-S relief valve spring and start by cutting off three coils. Instead of using a flange nut on the inside of the modified dome nut, I used a simple steel disk. An acquaintance of mine in Oz has found on his A-series engines that the addition of an 8mm (5/16") rod or dowel to the inside of the spring keeps it from flexing sideways which gave him a more stable oil pressure. Sorry... I don't remember the length he uses. I'll look to see if I still have the email about it.

You may not need the brass washer on the 1/4-28 bolt but it's not a bad idea.
 
Thanks guys,
I'm going to play with it tonight and see what happens. Thanks for the offer Jack - I'll see how it goes. I know I can buy one but then where is the challenge? The benefit that I’m really looking for is eliminating the hang up of the plunger with the ball. Like Doug said, the Mini has more of an issue with this, but the current engine’s oil pressure fluctuates day to day more than I would like. The adjustable part is really just so I don’t have to play with the spring length too much.
 
Chris, I've made these a million times building engines, in fact I will make one tommorow for the MGB engine I'm putting the final touches on (MGB and Spridget pressure relief valves are the same). I can usally zap one out in 15 minutes or less. Here's what I do, maybe this will help.

I drill the cap nut from the inside, it has a point in it on the inside so it's much easier to hit the center by drilling from the inside. I tap it for 1/4-28. Then I use a 1" or 1 1/4 long hex bolt (all threaded). On the bench grinder I just knock the corners off the hex bolt head so it will fit nicely within the cap nut. I also grind/belt sand all the markings off the top of the head of bolt so the spring has nice level seating area. I then thread the bolt from the inside of the cap nut, so that the threaded end of the bolt comes to the outside of cap nut, I then use a jam nut and thread on the end of the bolt. I put a slot in bolt so I can adjust with a screwdriver ( I use a hand grinder and cutting disc to make the slot, works nicely) . If you are using a gear reduction starter you don't have alot of room to work with on the outer side, I found it easier to get to with the screwdriver slot witha shorty screwdriver than getting a allen head wrench in this area. There are ones for sale out there with a knurled knob on them, these will work fine on Minis but not on the Spridget or atleast with the gear reduction starter. I also more often than not use the 9/16" ball bearing rather than the stock cup what I do for length is I measure the free length of the stock set up and then measure the free length of adjustable unit with it fully adjusted toward the outside with the ballbearing and cut the spring to equal the stock length, as now you can adjust inward to increase pressure.

Chris, feel free to email me at home, hapfp@charter.net, I have some pictures on this computer of one of these I made and will gladly send them to you. It's a piece of cake, you can do this with just a few simple tools, no biggie.

To answer the question asked above about why you would want to do this. By being able to set your cold oil pressure by adjusting the pressure regulator you can somewhat govern your hot oil pressue which oil pressure drops as it gets hot. Say for example you crank your car and the cold pressure is 60 pounds and once it heats up you at 50 pounds, but you would like to have 80 pounds cold pressure and 70 pounds hot pressure then a reglator will let you do this. All oil pumps and presure relief set ups even if new will not alway net you the oil pressure you want and a adjustable pressure regultor lets you better control this.
 
Someone pls note that this belongs in the knowledge base.
 
That's funny Jack, my wife tells me I have absolutely no knowledge. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
Bah, that's great info and well written. I could just see how to do it in a few minutes even. Tell wife that......on second thought don't tell wife.
 
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