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add on electric fan for BN6
- Thread starter bighealeysource
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GregW
Yoda
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Hi Tim,
I was agreeing with Keoke's first post.
I was agreeing with Keoke's first post.
I recall seeing a fan a few years back where the motor was on the perimeter of the fan blades. So the center didn't have a big metal/plastic housing blocking the airflow. Seemed like a cool idea but I haven't seen them in a while. Though I haven't been looking either.keoke said:
Cottontop
Jedi Warrior
Offline
GregW said:
10-4, Thanks for getting me back on the tracks, but would someone explain how the central motor of an electric fan can block airflow when mounted on the front of a radiator, but not block the same airflow when mounted on the back of a radiator.
I don't wholly agree with the presented case for pullers and pushers and think that I can present a credible argument (probably to no end). It's probably time to let this thread die.
Tim
OP
bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hey all,
Update - I was at my local Advance Auto Parts store and they sell the exact same
fan -Hayden- as sold by Moss. There's does not have the temp control relay
switch that uses the large brass probe that goes through the radiator. Cost
was only $56 versus $130 for the Moss unit. Granted no relay switch but after
seeing the size of that probe, no way I was going to try to stick that
through my radiator, in fact don't see how it could possibly go through.
Anyway, same fan for a lot less so bought it and mounting it took about
10 minutes. Took the Healey out today and had no issues with the new
pusher fan creating any over heating problem as do not have it electrically
hooked up yet. I'll just hook it up so it's always on and with a hidden toggle
switch can cut it off if need be for some reason. So, if anyone is thinking
about getting one, try your local auto parts store - lot cheaper than Moss.
Regards,
Mike
Update - I was at my local Advance Auto Parts store and they sell the exact same
fan -Hayden- as sold by Moss. There's does not have the temp control relay
switch that uses the large brass probe that goes through the radiator. Cost
was only $56 versus $130 for the Moss unit. Granted no relay switch but after
seeing the size of that probe, no way I was going to try to stick that
through my radiator, in fact don't see how it could possibly go through.
Anyway, same fan for a lot less so bought it and mounting it took about
10 minutes. Took the Healey out today and had no issues with the new
pusher fan creating any over heating problem as do not have it electrically
hooked up yet. I'll just hook it up so it's always on and with a hidden toggle
switch can cut it off if need be for some reason. So, if anyone is thinking
about getting one, try your local auto parts store - lot cheaper than Moss.
Regards,
Mike
Offline
MIke,
What is the part number of the fan you bought?
Charlie
What is the part number of the fan you bought?
Charlie
OP
bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hey Charlie,
It's Hayden part # 226110 at Advance Auto Parts. It is identical to the
Moss fan but does not include the temp relay switch.
Regards,
Mike
It's Hayden part # 226110 at Advance Auto Parts. It is identical to the
Moss fan but does not include the temp relay switch.
Regards,
Mike
Offline
bighealeysource said:
I installed the Hayden fan on my 100 without the relay as I wanted the option of turning it on when I wanted. I wired it "always hot", not through the ignition switch, so that I could leave it cooling even after I turned off the car. It is pretty hard to not hear it and walk away leaving it running inadvertently--maybe a time delay switch would be in order here though I guess I would have to bring a second feed in from the ignition so that it would not turn off in long bouts of traffic.
OP
bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
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I'm using both based on everything I've read. The pusher fan will force more
air through the radiator and compliment the Texas Cooler I'm using. At least
that's the plan !
Regards,
Mike
air through the radiator and compliment the Texas Cooler I'm using. At least
that's the plan !
Regards,
Mike
Cottontop
Jedi Warrior
Offline
bighealeysource said:
Mike,
I didn't want that big bulb shoved into my fins either, so I got a sugar cube sized piece of copper and drilled/threaded it the 8-32 stud on a small thermostat and soldered it under the overhang on the stock Healey radiator.
It was non-adjustable and came on and turned off at 190oF.
The fan operated independently of the ignition switch, but I had a manual ON and manual OFF override.
Tim
Online
Here's a little more food for thought taken from: https://www.turbo-owners.com/forum/general-tech/222-cooling-system-modifications.html
When you add and electric fan, there is always the option of pushing or pulling air through the radiator. So which is best? For the m ost part, the pulling air through the radiator works better. It is not a question of the fan being more efficient as a puller, if the fan was totally sealed to the radiator so there was no leakage, the pusher would be the ticket, but even with a shroud, there is some leakage. A fan does not just flow air through itself straight. A fan spins and causes the air to spin as well. Centrifugal force throws air outward all along the fan as well, but the intake side of the fan is pretty much limited to the area of the fan. When the fan is in front of the radiator, a lot of air goes thrown out and never makes it through the radiator at all. So when you compare total air moved, with a pusher, less makes it through the radiator than the same fan as a puller. A shroud really helps with a pusher, so I recommend a shroud on all pusher fans.
Curving the blades toward the direction of rotation like the new flex fan designs might help electric fans as pushers. The curved blades could cup the air and limit the amount thrown outward by centrifugal force. This is just a theory though, some experimenting would tell for sure. One more downfall for the pusher is that it’s right in the way of the incoming air, blocking the path to the radiator. In general, a pusher is only about 80% as efficient as the same fan as a puller.
When you add and electric fan, there is always the option of pushing or pulling air through the radiator. So which is best? For the m ost part, the pulling air through the radiator works better. It is not a question of the fan being more efficient as a puller, if the fan was totally sealed to the radiator so there was no leakage, the pusher would be the ticket, but even with a shroud, there is some leakage. A fan does not just flow air through itself straight. A fan spins and causes the air to spin as well. Centrifugal force throws air outward all along the fan as well, but the intake side of the fan is pretty much limited to the area of the fan. When the fan is in front of the radiator, a lot of air goes thrown out and never makes it through the radiator at all. So when you compare total air moved, with a pusher, less makes it through the radiator than the same fan as a puller. A shroud really helps with a pusher, so I recommend a shroud on all pusher fans.
Curving the blades toward the direction of rotation like the new flex fan designs might help electric fans as pushers. The curved blades could cup the air and limit the amount thrown outward by centrifugal force. This is just a theory though, some experimenting would tell for sure. One more downfall for the pusher is that it’s right in the way of the incoming air, blocking the path to the radiator. In general, a pusher is only about 80% as efficient as the same fan as a puller.
OP
bighealeysource
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hey all,
Here's an update on adding the pusher fan. Very easy install and the electrical
hook up was almost as easy. Hooked up to the hot with ignition on terminal on
the fuse block - used the extra screw in spot underneath the hook up locations for the standard fuses. Put a 30 amp fuse between this hook up and the wire to the pusher fan with a 30 amp toggle switch in between. Mounted the toggle
switch on a small plastic plate and not very noticeable at all unless you are
looking for it. Gives me the option to turn the pusher fan off although
could have just pulled the fuse. Took the BN6 out last weekend when it was
in the high 90's, ran around for 30 or 40 minutes, never got over 190 degrees.
Got stuck in a bit of traffic and might have creeped up towards 200 but did not
go over on its way on up if sitting still. So, verdict is it definitely helps
when sitting at a light, moving very slow. Doesn't seem to do much at speed
and I guess most important, does not block airflow causing the temp to go up
beyond 190. Since I had a nice coupon at Advance Auto parts, fan only cost
me $36 so real cheap for a Healey fix !
Regards,
Mike
Here's an update on adding the pusher fan. Very easy install and the electrical
hook up was almost as easy. Hooked up to the hot with ignition on terminal on
the fuse block - used the extra screw in spot underneath the hook up locations for the standard fuses. Put a 30 amp fuse between this hook up and the wire to the pusher fan with a 30 amp toggle switch in between. Mounted the toggle
switch on a small plastic plate and not very noticeable at all unless you are
looking for it. Gives me the option to turn the pusher fan off although
could have just pulled the fuse. Took the BN6 out last weekend when it was
in the high 90's, ran around for 30 or 40 minutes, never got over 190 degrees.
Got stuck in a bit of traffic and might have creeped up towards 200 but did not
go over on its way on up if sitting still. So, verdict is it definitely helps
when sitting at a light, moving very slow. Doesn't seem to do much at speed
and I guess most important, does not block airflow causing the temp to go up
beyond 190. Since I had a nice coupon at Advance Auto parts, fan only cost
me $36 so real cheap for a Healey fix !
Regards,
Mike