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TR5/TR250 ADCO Anti sway bar installation on the Tr250
- Thread starter Got_All_4
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Not sure if it would be the same; but on the TR3-4 you drill two holes through the bottom of the frame and they supply a squared-off U-bolt that you slip in through one hole and fiddle around until the end drops through the other hole. Then the bracket goes over the two bolt ends and gets secured with nuts. It's worked fine for me for many years.
Two basic ways to adjust are to change the firmness of the bushings, and change where it attaches to the suspension. You can also change the end links for ones that have springs on them, if you want.
Two basic ways to adjust are to change the firmness of the bushings, and change where it attaches to the suspension. You can also change the end links for ones that have springs on them, if you want.
BobbyD
Jedi Knight
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I'm not sure if this will help or hurt but I have an ADCO front sway bar on my TR6 for about 10 years with no apparent problems. When it came time to replace the bushings, I couldn't find any to fit properly and also found a cracked mount. Here's how I ended up fixing the whole thing.
PeterK
Yoda
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If you can, it's better to reinforce the rear frame area where the bar attaches - have a friend whose u-bolts ripped out the frame under cornering forces. He then had plates welded to the underside of the frame and used the original mounting method. Remember our frames are not very thick to begin with.
Alternatively, instead of using their u-bolts, use square u-bolts with longer legs (or two hex bolts) and drill all the way through the frame from the top; then use a 14ga. - 1/8" plates top and bottom, through which you insert (recommend tack weld the top) the bolts to spread out the forces.
My 4A has a front 7/8" Addco bar mounted to a TR6 radiator shield. It uses different holes than the factory 6 bar but fits well.
hth
Alternatively, instead of using their u-bolts, use square u-bolts with longer legs (or two hex bolts) and drill all the way through the frame from the top; then use a 14ga. - 1/8" plates top and bottom, through which you insert (recommend tack weld the top) the bolts to spread out the forces.
My 4A has a front 7/8" Addco bar mounted to a TR6 radiator shield. It uses different holes than the factory 6 bar but fits well.
hth
D
DougF
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Guest
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I purchased urethane bushings and an adjustment kit from TRF. The kit comes with various lengths of bolts and springs. I think I pretty much ended up using the standard set up with the urethane bushings.