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TR2/3/3A Acrylic Urethane Paint Repair
- Thread starter jfarris
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tomshobby
Yoda
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I use a paint prep Eastwood PRE Painting Prep to remove any wax or anything else that might keep the paint from sticking. Mix a small amount of Urethane and dab it on with a small brush or a tooth pick if it is just a scratch or small chip.
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
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Good advise Tom. Jim, what can I say. How much equipment do you have? I do this kind of repair a little different than most. Sand very lightly with a folded 400 grit wet and dry paper in the crack and chip, getting a small bit of scratching on the paint. Now tape to within a 1/8 inch of each. Clean and tack, paint (spray if possible) until over filled. Pull the tape and let it set for a couple of days. Sand with 2000 grit wet and dry, lots of soap in the water until flat. Buff it out. Be sure and cover the rest of the car and any others in the area park them away.
Lots of auto paint stores can mix you a spray can of the right color, if you take the car by and let them shot it, or mix your own and get one of the HF touch up guns and mix your own.
Wayne
Lots of auto paint stores can mix you a spray can of the right color, if you take the car by and let them shot it, or mix your own and get one of the HF touch up guns and mix your own.
Wayne
OP
jfarris
Jedi Trainee
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Thanks to both of you, Tom's method will work for the chip, but it may take Wayne's idea for the scratch. Having a spray can of touch up paint sounds like a good idea. I also have a friend who does a lot of airbrush work on helmets, I might ask him if the Acrylic Urethane can be thinned enough to use that method.
These forum's are worth their weight in gold!
These forum's are worth their weight in gold!
dklawson
Yoda
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If you need to spray, I suggest you invest in a small air brush. Go the craft store and buy a Badger (brand) model 250 single action airbrush (or buy one off eBay). Practice a bit on scrap metal just to get a feel for the airbrush. The airbrush can be had for around $20.
Depending on the depth and length of the scratch (and chip) you may be able to fill them by hand with a detail brush. Build up the paint in several thin layers until it is just above the surface of the sound paint. After 24 hours use a firm, small sanding pad to gently work the overly tall touchup paint flush with the sound paint using 1500 grit then 2000 grit wet/dry with lots of clean water as Wayne suggested. When flush, switch to polishing compounds and finally glazing compound.
The problem I have experienced with touchups is making sure that the paint is thoroughly mixed before applying to the car. Make sure the paint in the can is thoroughly stirred so the pigments in your touchup match the top coat as well as possible.
Depending on the depth and length of the scratch (and chip) you may be able to fill them by hand with a detail brush. Build up the paint in several thin layers until it is just above the surface of the sound paint. After 24 hours use a firm, small sanding pad to gently work the overly tall touchup paint flush with the sound paint using 1500 grit then 2000 grit wet/dry with lots of clean water as Wayne suggested. When flush, switch to polishing compounds and finally glazing compound.
The problem I have experienced with touchups is making sure that the paint is thoroughly mixed before applying to the car. Make sure the paint in the can is thoroughly stirred so the pigments in your touchup match the top coat as well as possible.
Darrell_Walker
Jedi Knight
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When filling in nicks and scratches, I've found these very helpful:
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70
https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Micro-Brushes-Paint-Applicators/dp/B00578QW70
tomshobby
Yoda
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To level runs or other hi spots in the paint I learned a trick from Kevin Tetz. It is so simple, just take a single edge razor blade and drag it backward on a leather belt. When you can feel a edge form on the blade make a slight bend to curve the edge with the burred edge towards the high side of the curve. Then drag the edge backwards on the high spot. A few times and it will take the paint down. Not only is it easy and cheap but it is easy to control without taking too much material around the high spot.
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On the spray method suggested by Wayne, I use three courses of tape, starting outside to in, overlapping each other by about 1/8 inch.
spray a first light coat and pull the first (inner) tape almost immediately, wait 20 minutes and spray the second coat. This gives you a thinner "line" to sand out with the 2000 before you buff. Don't buy the blending fluid. It will not produce even color.
You could use four courses of tape for 3 coats.
Bob
spray a first light coat and pull the first (inner) tape almost immediately, wait 20 minutes and spray the second coat. This gives you a thinner "line" to sand out with the 2000 before you buff. Don't buy the blending fluid. It will not produce even color.
You could use four courses of tape for 3 coats.
Bob
trrdster2000
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Bob and all, Good way to a end results all the same. Some will find what is easiest for them. I do like the three tape system and will give it a try on my next fix, a 2013 Harley front fender. We do what we can to help friends. Learn something new everyday, even at 75.
Wayne
Wayne