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Acrylic Enamal Paint - Wet Sand
- Thread starter GB1
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martx-5
Yoda
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When I painted my TR3 with acrylic enamel paint, I was wet sanding the next day. However, with the temps you are seeing, I'd wait a few days more. Also, the problem with runs and sags is that it's hard to just wet sand them out without sanding through adjacent areas. I had a few runs and used paint files to cut the runs down and then wet sanded the area. If the runs and sags are heavy, I'd wait even longer to file down. Those files like the paint to be pretty hard. I waited about a week for those areas. Use plenty of water with a few drops of liquid dish washing soap in there. Soak the sandpaper you're going to use in the bucket for about twenty minutes before you start. You should be able to start with 1000 grit, but if you have some areas that need heavy work, you can start with 800...just be careful, that stuff cuts pretty fast. Go onto 1500 then 2000. I've never had to sand with anything finer then 2000, as the buffing compound took out any 2000 scratches I had. You do have a buffer I hope.
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Patrick~!
A flat stick (I use a Lucite "stick" about 4" long, 1"x1/2"), some #600 wet-or-dry, a bucket of water... after a week or so. Art has the technique. I just cut with 600 for a faster result. 1500 for the last bit.
Take yer time, focus on slowly hitting the sags to "level" 'em to the height of the rest of the paint. Lots of water, lots of patience. Then fine compound to polish all to a good uniform shine.
A flat stick (I use a Lucite "stick" about 4" long, 1"x1/2"), some #600 wet-or-dry, a bucket of water... after a week or so. Art has the technique. I just cut with 600 for a faster result. 1500 for the last bit.
Take yer time, focus on slowly hitting the sags to "level" 'em to the height of the rest of the paint. Lots of water, lots of patience. Then fine compound to polish all to a good uniform shine.
2wrench
Luke Skywalker
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Hey, Doc, there you are. Seems I haven't heard from you in a while.
Can I comment the risk in sanding out drips comes from sanding the lows
as much or more than the highs. Picture your flat surface turned on its
side. Now you see the drips as peaks and valleys. The challenge is to only
sand down the peaks while hardly touching the valleys, in order to bring the
paint flat for polishing out smooth, (hence the flat stick recommended by Doc and the paint files recommended by Art).
If you sand the valleys, then you buff, you can easily get burn-through,
a common yet undesirable result where too much finish is removed damaging your
finish. Touch lightly accross the tops of the drips and work slowly.
Exercise patience.
Best of luck,
Can I comment the risk in sanding out drips comes from sanding the lows
as much or more than the highs. Picture your flat surface turned on its
side. Now you see the drips as peaks and valleys. The challenge is to only
sand down the peaks while hardly touching the valleys, in order to bring the
paint flat for polishing out smooth, (hence the flat stick recommended by Doc and the paint files recommended by Art).
If you sand the valleys, then you buff, you can easily get burn-through,
a common yet undesirable result where too much finish is removed damaging your
finish. Touch lightly accross the tops of the drips and work slowly.
Exercise patience.
Best of luck,
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I use approximately the same method as Doc with the exception during the initial sanding, I apply strips of <span style="font-weight: bold">Blue</span> painters tape, (it has a soft grip adhesive and won't damage paint when removed), along side of the run and heavy paper out a ways. It has just enough thickness to keep you from over sanding plus protects the surrounding area from being touched. Remove paper and tape and finalize the job with a lot of patience!