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Accelerator Linkage Slop

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I have taken a hard look at my accelerator linkage (specifically the bell crank lever, the bell crank and control rod assemblies) and find that there is a lot of slop in the system in that full accelerator pedal pressure will not give me maximum carb activation, whereas if I press down on the top control rod I can get a lot more gas into the carbs. The whole bell crank assembly is a lot of wasted motion in my view. The accelerator linkage on the PI cars show a lot more positive action with direct cable linkage. Has anyone done anything to tighten up the stock linkage (replacement bell cranks are not available.)? Or converted the carb setup to cable actuation? I am running trip carbs but the linkage setup is basically the same as stock. I suppose I could take a little more slack out of everything but I don't how much further I can go. I need more positive acceleration.

Bill
 
Bill,

My linkage suffers from the same malody. I've fiddled with it so I've got about 95% of the throttle and like you if operate the linkage by hand I can get full throttle.

I've thought about a cable setup but I honestly wouldn't know where to start.

I'd be willing to try though. I'll do some internet searches.....
 
We Had this discussion about two weeks ago, I have developed a cable set up for my TR6 if you are interested. You can see pictures on my web page at www.abstr6.com and clicl on the linkage link. If you are interested you can pm me or email me at crevabjm@optonline.net Hope this helps Ab
 
Yes I could and would make it. I see that you are using 3 carbs on your 6. Is it 3 Webers or are they the Good parts set up for ZS or SU's. If you have ZS's or SU's it shouldn't be hard to make a bracket to fit. Email me for mor info. Ab
 
Last dead Last,Sorry that was TR6 Bill that had the 3 carbs. What carb set up are you running?
 
Yes, I have the Goodparts triple ZS. I believe Bill is running the same thing as well.

I'm going to bed, I'll look at my currnet carb linkage and email you tomorrow.
 
Abe,

I'm going to need to hook up to a throttle body sometime soon so I'm looking at connections from the pedal. I might be having a senior moment but it looks like you have attached the cable to the lever arm and are using the stock pedal rather than going the MK4 Spit conversion route.

Now it's early and I'm having trouble orienting myself in your engine bay, but it looks like this might be a no hassle way of doing what I need to do if I can't get a linkage to work.

With that in mind here's the $64000 question. When do you plan to start making them?

Thx, Alan
 
I've helped convert a TR6 and a TR4A to throttle cables. In both cases we tossed the orginal set up. The Triumph excuse for a throttle linkage really is poor. For a proper yet complicated linkage look at an XKE...Artwork.

The conversions used an MGB pedal on a steel rod that still passed through the bulkheads. The cable then came up out of the drivers side pedal box and over the valve cover. Thats where it can get complicated. I have no pictures of either though.

I was talking to Neil Revington about how I wanted to convert my Triple ZS's to a cable throttle with a similar set up to the cars i described above. He asked why I hadn't thought of using a LHD PI throttle pedal assembly. He seemed to think they were still available but I haven't found any yet. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

That would probably look and work more like Ab's conversion.
 
Hello to all.

For what it's worth, I've never had any slop in my throttle linkage. Acceleration is quick with no hesitation at all.
 
I can make them at any time, as I said, the set up I have now is for the twin Weber DGV's but the original linkage was the Triumph Stock set up. The new cable set up will work for any set up that is using the stock linkage, all I need to do is modify the bracket at the carb so that it fits ZS's or SU's. I don't see that as a big problem. I will be seeing my associate this weekend and will have a better Idea of a time frame for availability. If you email me your info and your email address I will get back to you.
 
I'm sure there are alot of good ways to do this, here's how I did it. Spitfire pedal parts, two or three bolts gets the whole thing, a GT6 cable, (Spits a little short), and a bit of metal work that bolts to the manifold or get the works off a used Spit carb. Wayne
 
Wayne- did your post have an illustration? I don't seem to get them
don
 
Mine had slop as well due to the nylon bushings being either worn out or missing. As the replacement nylon bushings are a pain to install, I used bronze bushings and slip collars. I found the instructions on the web a few years ago and I can't remember where. All of the stuff to do it came from McMaster-Carr. It worked like a charm.

Dave
 
Dave:
I need a bushing in my TR6 and out of principal refuse to pay $10 for the bushing (for the minimum order/handling etc.) I have never read anything like what you have described and find it fascinating. How can I get the details?

For the last bushing I installed I cut out a wedge section out of the bushen so I could compress it enough to fit up and also go around the shaft. Must not have worked very well, 10 years later I see it is missing.
 
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