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A15 motor in my Midget - more problems!

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RickB

RickB

Yoda
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It sounds like a helicopter or an old peugeot!
Saturday I returned home after 15 days in Alaska and then on Sunday I ran my car out about 80 miles to my mother in law's 81st birthday party.
It was running great - part way. (I think it felt neglected)
I returned on the ferry and when I started up the car it sounded rough, and had less power.
It idles fine, but revving it sounds like "puh puh puh" instead of the normal "vroom".
It burns oil and last time it had similar symptoms I replaced the plugs and it ran fine.

I've replaced plugs, put a spark tester on and verified I have spark at all 4 plugs, checked the carbs and they are fine.
Next I plan to check my compression at all 4 cylinders to make sure something in there hasn't broken.
Just strange it ran so great until I got on the ferry then like crap when I got off it.
The only other thing I did was fill up with gas over there but that was at a large chain so I don't really suspect the gas.

Any other thoughts?
 
what colour are the plugs?
 
JPSmit said:
what colour are the plugs?
Click to expand...

Well there's a white part and a silver part and a black part.
I just replaced them.

I did a compression test, have about 20 lbs in #4. :(

That last rocker bolt was always iffy, I guess it came loose.
Any thoughts on securing a stripped out rocker bolt in an aluminum head?
 
Helicoil. On another note...I have seen folks "playing around" pop a bonnet and swap some plug wires around.
Happened to me in early 1968 on my flathead Ford....you should have seen the look on their mugs when I drove it away...went a mile, pulled over, swapped them back, and finished the run.
 
i WISH IT WAS THAT SIMPLE.
mAYBE A HELICOIL WILL FIX IT, THANKS!

crap, caps lock was on...
 
20#'s in number 4!!! I'm afraid that maybe you broke a piston. I've got a good used A14 plus 2 rebuilt B210 A14's. Not hard to make the A15 1600cc as well.

Kurt.
 
Are you saying the intake valve is unable to open, and therefor you are only showing 20lbs compression?
 
That's my thinking Trevor, couldn't pull the cover yesterday though.
 
If I'm getting a little thread would any form of locktite possibly do the trick?
I don't ever use the stuff but I'd be willing to try it.
 
would any form of locktite possibly do the trick?
Click to expand...
I sure don't think so. JB Weld would probably work but you sure don't want to do that. :sorrow::grief::cryin:
Actually, a helicoil is not that hard. It's been a long time since I did one but just follow the instructions exactly and they work well.
 
RickB said:
If I'm getting a little thread would any form of locktite possibly do the trick?
I don't ever use the stuff but I'd be willing to try it.
Click to expand...

Just fix it right. A helicoil will outlast you and the car. What CAN happen is...you're out on an 80 mile trip, rocker shaft comes adrift, lifts, end of rocker arm catches the end of the valve stem, cam activates, bends the valve, and you're sunk.

Helicoil kits are NOT expensive. Pull the stud, take it to a place of purchase, get one for THAT thread.
Mask off the area with rags, tape, even lots of grease, to catch the chips, keep them out of the sump!
 
Oh...wand with the entire shaft OFF, put in a bolt/stud in a nearby hole.....visually line up the tap in N-S and E-W directions so you know it's straight when you tap it. You CAN tap the stud into place sideways a bit after assembly of the helicoil and stud if it won't quite line up to drop the rocker shaft assembly back on.
 
TOC - I agree, that is likely what I should do.
One other possible thing that may bail me out (considering I'm not even 100% sure this is the problem yet)...
Since this is a bolt on rocker not one with studs is that I can get a piece of allthread of the same thread as the bolt and cut that and thread it down into the head - the threads go on past where the bolt reaches.
Then I could put a nut on the top of the rocker pedestal.
If this is even the problem, I have to get the valve cover off tonight after work and verify all this is really the issue.
 
Well......since the factory bolt is most likely grade 5 or better, maybe even 8, and all-thread is recycled Toyotas of maybe grade 2......you might get away with it. Just don't drill the hole much deeper or you'll be into the water jacket.
 
Rick, just send me that offending head and I'll send you a good one! Won't be the same number head but will be like new!

Actually heli-coil is quite easy as TOC said. Only trick will be getting it straight as he mentioned. Racer's commonly heli-coil all threads in aluminum when they build an engine.

Kurt.
 
I don't want to mess this head up they are rare.
I'll try the recycled toyota fix and if that doesn't work I'll do it the right way.
This whole lump needs to come out and get rebuilt, just buying time.
 
Valve clearances were ok, no problem with the rockers.
The timing was a bit off so I set it.
Still runs bad. Sounds like a lawnmower.
 
Check the cap. Look for cracks or tracks. Double check firing order.
20n pounds may be it, or you may have a broken valve spring. Push down on the valve end of each rocker with the palm of your and (engine off) with valve UP, see if any feel really, really weaker.
May be time to yank the head, Rick.
 
I'm betting you will be looking for a good used or rebuilt engine, Rick. Sorry. I've got both but A14's at present.

Kurt.
 
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