A-Post Replacement

[Jim_Gruber]

Looking for some collective wisdom from this list.

I pulled of the lower portion DS A-Post skin and it is totally ugly underneath. Will need to replace the entire A post and do some work even on the backing skin. Have not got to PS yet but I know skin on that side needs to be replaced. Not sure about A-Post but may get lucky there.

Question is this, I read through my Practical Classics Reto Guide and looked at all the pics thoroughly. Can't seem to tell which side the A posts were spotwelded to the backing skin. Did they weld from inside the footwell meaning the A Post went on first or do I need to look closer at the A post to spot the welds. Trying to figure out which side to work from in cutting spot welds.

This one is quickly becoming ugly but when I can stick a screwdriver all the way through under the lower hinge it's time for that one to come out.

Upper joint on A-Pillar skin is soldered I believe. Do you take a torch to it to melt the solder. That's got to be messy.

Debating wheter I can partially replace the A-Post or need to do it as a complete assembly.
The idea of a complete assembly to keep hinges seems easier. Which is the easiest way to repair the A-Post , complete or partial replacement. So far I've only cut the A-Pillar skin up 6" from bottom. I do know that area where door stop check strap goes across is bent all to heck and is cracked so I need to go at least above that if I do a partial replacement.

Thoughts and opinions?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

OK so far no ideas from the group. Can you do a partial A-Post Replacement or do I need to do the entire A-Post to keep hinges in proper alignment with the doors?

I'd probably need to go up almost to the top hinge.

 

[ichthos]

I have a 60 bugeye. I ended up replacing both posts on mine for the same reason you stated. I am a novice, and it ended up being a very time consuming job. I don't remember all of the correct names for the parts, so I hope I make sense. I will be describing directions as you are facing the A post. On the top of the A post, I simply sanded the solder off. If I remember correctly, there were just a few welds at the top. There will be a nut that goes to the windsheild, so be careful not to lose it. To remove the outer skin on the A post, I sanded the right side of the outer area to find the welds and drilled out the welds. I drilled all the way through since I knew I would be using plug welds later. On the left hand side, I used a grinder carefully cut the edge that folds over to remove the skin. It was at this point I decided to replace the whole post. (In retrospect, I wish I would have just repaired the bottom portions that goes to the bottom hinge and put on a new skin insead of replacing the entire post.) Next, I sanded on the inside of the car behind the A post to find the welds and used a drill to remove the welds. This worked well since I used the same holes for plug welds later. I can't remember who I bought the whole post from, but I wasn't entirely happy with the fit initially. I ended up doing a lot of fitting. Again, if I had it to do over, I would have put in a repair piece for the lower hinge and put a new skin on the outside. Just my 2 cents. My posts look and functions great, but it was a real pain. I could give you a long list of things not to do on this process. Hope that helped.
Kevin

 

[JPSmit]

OK so far no ideas from the group. Can you do a partial A-Post Replacement or do I need to do the entire A-Post to keep hinges in proper alignment with the doors?

I'd probably need to go up almost to the top hinge.

haven't had to do this but I know you can buy 1/2 A-post replacements as well as the full

see 14, 15, 16, 17

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29310#top

or here - lower hinge mounts

https://www.obsoleteauto.com/searchfr.htm

 

[mccalebr]

Looking for some collective wisdom from this list.

I pulled of the lower portion DS A-Post skin and it is totally ugly underneath. Will need to replace the entire A post and do some work even on the backing skin. ...

Thoughts and opinions?

Jim,

BTDT! Not nearly as bad a job as I had imagined. I replaced both posts with new ones (tapping plates are included) and both skins.

There are some photos on my web site https://www.raysmg.com ...go to the "Spridget Project" link...then "Bodywork (Sep-Nov)"...look down the page to "October 2007".

I considered the lower patch, but getting the hinge distance would have been a pain.

Skins...the skins are made to spot weld on the front (leading) edge to the firewall and the rear edge has a flange that is left open (90 degrees to the skin). The idea is to snap the skin in place and tack the front, then push the rear edge toward the post until tight, then with a light body hammer tap the flange at middle, top, and bottom until it bends in enough to catch. Then continue to work the flange until it completely crimps the trailing edge of the post. Again, the photos show it better than I can describe.

If you'd like to talk about it, PM me for a phone number and we can discuss how I did mine.

Ray

 

[HAN8L1965]

Jim,

If it is just the lower hinge box you will not need to replace the complete post. you will need VB part #9-9767 for left side and #9-9758, about $30.00 worth of parts for each side. It is important to have a good sill to positon the hinge box on. Everything welds from the back side. The patch piece needs to be crimped on the door side it wraps around the cowl. I crimped it before installation for the best and straightest fit. The hinge box really sets up the new frame work for everything to go together. It goes in first and will require some grinding for a proper finish. While doing this project measure twice think again then cut any pieces. Mine came out beautiful, I don't think anyone will be able to see that it is a redone piece.

Best of luck,

Mark

 

[tony barnhill]

Are we talking just the skin or the entire post?

 

[HAN8L1965]

In my post I replaced the skin and the lower portion only of the post. Would send some pics but I don't know how.

Mark

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Thanks All, think I've got my answers.

 

[tony barnhill]

We're removing my fender & door today to cut open the bottom of my passenger A-post (little bubble of rust showing) so I can take photos as we install the patch panel...

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Tony,

Will be curious as to your diagnosis as well. More pics the better. Since I can push a screwdriver from the front, under the lower hinge to the Outer Sill underneath the door I've got to do some metal work in there. Ugly stuff to learn but interesting.

 

[tony barnhill]

K - mine is really just for my own benefit...you have to really get down & look closely to find the bubble....we cut open the inside of the kick panel to see what was in there - all clean & solid with a few leaves & some dirt (it falls down from inside the engine compartment) - then we sucked it clean & will protect when we open the bottom of the A-post skin.

 

[HAN8L1965]

Here are some pics of the lower post replacement.

Mark