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A lug stud question

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T

Tinster

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One of my rear wheels is missing a lug stud.
I tried to install a new one but it seems,
over time, the hole has widened and the new stud
will not grab any metal.

Any suggestions? I'd really hate to have to
rip out the hub assembly again and get the
lug stud welded into place. Is it possible
to tac weld the stud without removing the hub?

thanks,

d
 
Can you not put the stud in place and tighten the wheel nut onto it. That will hold the wheel on, although it may be a little inconventient each time you remove the wheel.
 
Call around to your parts purveyors. See if anyone handles the Dorman line of hardwared. They(Dorman) used to carry an extensive line of studs. Some with wider bases just for when things like you quote occurred. Also the option exists with Dorman of installing a stud with the same thread diameter and pitch from a different car that would fit your needs. Mebbe a search for Dorman and research their online catalog.
 
There is also a flat spring style lock washer, more commonly used on body fastener/bolts that can help to lock it in place between the wheel and the drum.
 
A good metal epoxy?

But to answer your question, yes, a decent welder can tack the stud to the hub, but you will need to take the brake drum and shoes off so he can get to it.
 
The Dorman stud I used is #610-114. It measures 7/16-20x1 21/32. The hole must be reamed to 9/16.
I'm not certain that an epoxy will hold. With potholes etc., it would have to withstand a lot of impact. I sell epoxies that can be drilled and tapped, but I wouldn't trust them to hold in this situation.
If welded, it would require a strong cast rod that would be compatible with hard steel. They exist, but may be hard to find in PR. If the stud is welded and later fails, it could cause a problem.
Personally, I would put in a new stud.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
A good metal epoxy?

But to answer your question, yes, a decent welder can tack the stud to the hub, but you will need to take the brake drum and shoes off so he can get to it.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Thanks Ray for the tip.
That might pose a huge problem for the welding shop.
I,m not very good at installing brake shoes because
of the springs. It took me an entire weekend to
install the 2nd set of new rear brakes.

After I buggered up the first set so badly trying
to install THEM.

Maybe I can run down that lock washer Paul spoke of.

Ron, I checked your source- no studs for TR6.

d</span>
 
Dale-

Might be worth Ron and Doug's advice. Here's a link to the Dorman product Doug mentions:

72-64 Pontiac Stud

I'd think that you'd be able to go to a parts counter somewhere and ask for the stud by car and year and get something that might work, even if Dorman isn't listed as the manufacturer.

Randy
 
Thanks Randy-
I bookmarked the Pontiac stud and will try
to run it down.

I had difficulty managing the Dorman site.

thanks again,

d :savewave:
 
Tinster said:
I,m not very good at installing brake shoes because
of the springs. It took me an entire weekend to
install the 2nd set of new rear brakes.

After I buggered up the first set so badly trying
to install THEM.
Click to expand...
But that was just the first time, right? Now you should be in and outta there like the pit crew at the Indy 500!
 
Go to any small auto parts store and ask to look at the Dorman book. There will be several pages of studs, lug nuts, and wheel bolts. Just match up yours and buy one with a slightly larger knurled end. The book has measured drawings, so it's real easy to match things up.
 
I had the same problem and welding did not work. They still came out when torqued properly.
I bought new hubs with modern (pressed from the rear) studs for safety.
OTOH you could have them bored out and have new studs pressed in from the rear that are designed for that.
If one has come loose there is a good chance another will too as they've been over torqued or removed before.
 
Tr8, in Puerto Rico, Dale's lucky to have ANY auto parts store, small, medium or any size....
 
tr8todd said:
Go to any small auto parts store and ask to
look at the Dorman book.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #990000">Yer makin' a funny on me, yes??

d :wall:</span>
 
Well, my attempt to quote failed, so I guess I'll just blab out of context.

Dale, ISTR when I've installed the rear shoes it made it easier to have the springs assembled onto the shoes first, then fit the shoes onto the adjusters on the bottom. Then grab the tops of the shoes and pull them apart enough to engage the wheel cyl. lugs. A lot easier than putting the shoes in place and then trying to hook up the springs. Also, be sure you have the top spring oriented correctly.

Tom
 
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