• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

A/H 3000 braking system

bava

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
G'day A/H owners
a while ago I asked advice on brakes, more questions!
I have a set of Jaguar 3 spot calipers plus the rears. I have now managed to get late BJ8 axles so solved the fitting problem.
Have looked a lot on the forum Re. the question of dual circuit with very different views so my questions are
1. Is dual circuit worth the bother 2. is the brake pedal effort ok without a booster 3. what m/c are available I know of the English black taxis had a dual unit that fitted but very hard to get/ walwood/ & back in 2009 someone mentioned the b210 nissan unit? 4. What is the best bore size? 5. next is the question of disc rotors EBC make a set with green stuff pads but not sure if still available or are the standard BJ8 ones adequate? 6. The rear disc & Jag calipers any clues as to the correct fitment?
Sorry to have so many questions but I value all the advice I see on the forum. The car 1960 BT7 is going to be a rally copy & will do the odd race meeting/hillclimb/ road rally, mind you by the time i finish it I will be to old!
Cheers
Bryn
Newcastle Australia
 
My 4 wheel disc setup works fine without a booster. Toyota 4-pot front calipers and 3/4" FIAT 124/131 dual master cylinder.

A friend (also BN6) refitted his 3/4" Girling MC and it works fine with the Girling Type 16 fronts and ceramic pads all around. He had used the 5/8" MC when he had his rear drums.

IMO you should build your system without a booster and only add it later if the pedal effort is too great.

I think your Jag/Jag setup is one the folks at Healey Factory in Melbourne are experienced with and you could call them for advice. I'm sure they can sell you the rear rotors and brackets.

The dual-circuit is a safety factor if you go to 4 wheel discs. Think of it like this: the rear drums are large and powerful and the handbrake can stop the car if you have a hydraulic failure. I doubt if the 1" square pads on the Jag e-brakes could stop the car - so the 2nd circuit is advisable.
 
G'day Steve,
Thanks for your comprehensive reply I have taken what you say & am working on it.
At this stage I intend to use a 13/16 Datsun dual M/C ( a mate has a practically brand new one!) with a bias valve. Am going without a booster at first as you suggest.
We have in the town a brake guru who looks after quite a few race & rally cars so I am talking to him for his input as well.
Also while surfing the net (beats watching TV) I came across a bloke in South Africa John who has done almost exactly the same as I want to do. It turns out you have helped him a couple of years back so he was happy to pass on what he has learnt. the rear rotor he used per your advice I believe was a BMW1995 318 TI front disc. Has anything changed? By the way his car is up & running & looks great.
I talked to the Healey Factory in Melbourne but the were clueless Re. the jaguar rear setup!I actually got the s/h BJ8 front axles of off Rob the boss there.
I looked for your "shop" do you sell the bits & pieces? I have the drawings etc for the brackets but would be interested buying ready made. The width of the bracket presumably would have bearing on centralising the disc rotor.
Once again thanks for your help you are a great source of info on Healeys.
Cheers
Bryn
Bryn Warners Bay Australia
 
Back
Top