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78 Midget
- Thread starter Royal_58
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You might want to post this over on the Spridget section - more folks specific to Midgets and Sprites there.
Mickey
Mickey
RickB
Yoda
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Look for RUST.
If you plan (or hope) to keep the engine make sure it turns freely.
There are plenty of engine swaps available for this car, it's a 78 so not too many people will cry if it isn't kept "original".
(there will be some, let me warn you)
The car will go like a bat outta he** if you put in a Datsun 1500 with a high perf head and twin side draft carbs.
Mine has the Datsun motor, but the stock downdraft carb and I got a ticket a year ago for going 87 on the freeway. (I've since been a very good boy - mostly)
If you couple that with the Datsun 5 speed transmission you wont have to spend all the money on a conversion kit - money that can be spent on the motor.
Anyway, whatever you plan to do with the drive train - look for rust.
The rear spring boxes where the leaf springs connect to the body - those can be a killer if they are rusty.
There's no frame, so structural soundness is job 1. If it's rust free and they don't want more than about $750 I'd go for it. It would be worth twice that much with a running engine. A bit more if it's totally rust and dent free.
Be sure to check for bondo covering rusted out areas.
Be sure to look closely at the floors in front of and under the seats.
Here's how my 78 looks after a few modifications...
If you plan (or hope) to keep the engine make sure it turns freely.
There are plenty of engine swaps available for this car, it's a 78 so not too many people will cry if it isn't kept "original".
(there will be some, let me warn you)
The car will go like a bat outta he** if you put in a Datsun 1500 with a high perf head and twin side draft carbs.
Mine has the Datsun motor, but the stock downdraft carb and I got a ticket a year ago for going 87 on the freeway. (I've since been a very good boy - mostly)
If you couple that with the Datsun 5 speed transmission you wont have to spend all the money on a conversion kit - money that can be spent on the motor.
Anyway, whatever you plan to do with the drive train - look for rust.
The rear spring boxes where the leaf springs connect to the body - those can be a killer if they are rusty.
There's no frame, so structural soundness is job 1. If it's rust free and they don't want more than about $750 I'd go for it. It would be worth twice that much with a running engine. A bit more if it's totally rust and dent free.
Be sure to check for bondo covering rusted out areas.
Be sure to look closely at the floors in front of and under the seats.
Here's how my 78 looks after a few modifications...
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British car Rust is problem #1 - particularly the bottom of the A-posts and the bottom door hinges. After that floor boards. (and all the usual spots) Many people (including me) do a chrome bumper conversion if possibly as they are prettier and quieter. The 1500 engine is more fragile than the 1275 particularly around the thrust bearings. I don't think there are as many go fast pieces for the engine as for a 1275.
I love my car but the 1500's are the least valuable Spridgets of all and, as such, you will have to be even more careful than usual that you don't overspend the restoration (assuming of course that you seriously think you'll get anything out of it
I love my car but the 1500's are the least valuable Spridgets of all and, as such, you will have to be even more careful than usual that you don't overspend the restoration (assuming of course that you seriously think you'll get anything out of it
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all Midgets post late 1974 have the 1500 Triumph Spitfire Engine - British Leyland made the choice to meet emission standards in the USA. If you are looking at the engine from the front (facing the rear of the car) 1500 has a single carb on the left, 1275 has (usually) dual carbs on the right.
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It's dead easy with the engine out - others will wade in on the engine in. Basically the problem is that they aren't pinned in so they can fall out into the oil pan causing the crankshaft to move. It seems to happen more often if you idle with the clutch in. That being said it doesn't happen that often, it's just that if something happens, it's likely to be that. I think we've had one set go in the 4 years I've been on the board.
Rust is the real issue
BTW, assuming the smog stuff is not necessary for you (Mostly - maybe only California) you do have the advantage that the engine is built for unleaded gas and you have a desirable 3:9? rear end.
British reviewers called the 1500 Midget the first true 100 MPH Midget - but in Britain - dual carbs/ higher compression but it can be done - did we tell you it's a Spitfire engine?
Rust is the real issue
BTW, assuming the smog stuff is not necessary for you (Mostly - maybe only California) you do have the advantage that the engine is built for unleaded gas and you have a desirable 3:9? rear end.
British reviewers called the 1500 Midget the first true 100 MPH Midget - but in Britain - dual carbs/ higher compression but it can be done - did we tell you it's a Spitfire engine?