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78 Midget Engine Removal

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rjhorizon

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Well, after not being able to sort out the clutch problems externally, I started to pull the engine/trans assembly. So far so good. Only need to disconnect the safety cable and clutch slave and she should come out. I say that with confidence but also realize nothings is as easy as one thinks.

I havnt done this before so anm entering the ubknown. I am planning on replacing the cluth assemblyand its related parts. What do I need to look for inside the gear area after the clutch bits? I am hoping i dont have to break it all down. Is this a mistake to try and just do a visual inside of the gears or should I tear it all down and inspect each piece?

Any feedback would be welcome. Thanks.
 
Maybe a silly question but is it possible to remove the transmission & bellhousing without removing the engine in a Midget? I've only had my 76 Midget for a month and haven't looked at an engine or transmission removal yet.
 
No! The transmission fits inside the transmission tunnel. The transmission tunnel is fully welded, including the bottom plate.

The bellhousing is part of the transmission case and is not removable. There is not a removable dust shield either. The steel plate you see is the back plate for the engine and can not be removed until you remove the engine, clutch assembly, and flywheel.

This means you can not check clutch plate thickness or drive a putty knife between the flywheel and disc to free a stuck clutch without removing the engine. The method to free a stuck clutch is to start the engine and warm it up, shut the engine off, put the car in gear, start the engine, accelerate and jam the brakes on hard, with the clutch pedal depressed. Make sure you do this in a safe locatin with enough room to stop if the clutch does not break loose!

I bought a Sprite for almost nothing from the Exxon station. They said it wasn't feasible to drive it home, as the water pump was bad, the carbs. leaked gas, the engine wouldn't run, and the clutch was stuck. I showed up with a battery and started installing it. The mechanic came out to see me fail. Filled up the radiator as I only lived a few miles away, turned on the ignition, rapped on the float bowls with a screw driver handle, started the car and warmed it up. The mechanic said I still couldn't drive it. I followed the above procedure, waved at the mechanic, and drove off. I think he was disappointed as he stated he really wanted the car, but it was going to cost too much to fix.

Someday the TD story. It is much better.

Phil
 
that is seariously cool, good on ya.

Can't wait for the TD story.
 
Gilbert, Robbie , and I saw an ad for a MG TD advertised for an extremely low price, as the engine was seized up. We called the owner up and arranged to meet him at his apartment. We found the car in the parking lot, opened the hood, placed the fuse inthe center slot between the two fuses (this causes power to be sent to the ignition), put Robbie's starter crank in the car (from his MGA) and jumped on it, pushed the starter button and she fired up. We flipped a quarter to see who would buy her. Gilbert won. We than installed a set of tags on the car. Went to the apartment and told the owner we wanted the car. He asked don't we want to see it first. We said no, and he signed the title over. He came outside with us to show us the car, Gibert jumped in, fired her up , and drove off. Such a look of disapointment on the owners face. Phil
 
[ QUOTE ]
No! The transmission fits inside the transmission tunnel. The transmission tunnel is fully welded, including the bottom plate.

The bellhousing is part of the transmission case and is not removable. There is not a removable dust shield either. The steel plate you see is the back plate for the engine and can not be removed until you remove the engine, clutch assembly, and flywheel.

This means you can not check clutch plate thickness or drive a putty knife between the flywheel and disc to free a stuck clutch without removing the engine. The method to free a stuck clutch is to start the engine and warm it up, shut the engine off, put the car in gear, start the engine, accelerate and jam the brakes on hard, with the clutch pedal depressed. Make sure you do this in a safe locatin with enough room to stop if the clutch does not break loose!

I bought a Sprite for almost nothing from the Exxon station. They said it wasn't feasible to drive it home, as the water pump was bad, the carbs. leaked gas, the engine wouldn't run, and the clutch was stuck. I showed up with a battery and started installing it. The mechanic came out to see me fail. Filled up the radiator as I only lived a few miles away, turned on the ignition, rapped on the float bowls with a screw driver handle, started the car and warmed it up. The mechanic said I still couldn't drive it. I followed the above procedure, waved at the mechanic, and drove off. I think he was disappointed as he stated he really wanted the car, but it was going to cost too much to fix.

Someday the TD story. It is much better.

Phil

[/ QUOTE ]

All good info..except that the bellhousing bolts are on the inside and it is removable. Mine is seperated and stored as I write this. Will supply pics if necessary, though I do not think it is important enough to the original question to bother arguing over, just pointing out that it can be done if need be. I have heard that the B box cannot be seperated from the bellhousing...any truth to that?
 
1275 has dust covers, but no lower cover/shield numbers 4 and 5 @Moss

rj, as far as taking a look inside, go ahead. but it can be difficult to tell much, other than something obvious like a broken gear, or big knarly chunks in the bottom, to tell if all is well in there. Be sure to clean it up well on the outside and be sure to not let any gunk in there when you pull the cover:smile:. If all was well with your tranny before you started having problems....but you did say there are quite a few miles on it...and since it IS going in for surgery...ya might as well do....... place moss on your speed dial now..... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif



mark
 
So the engine and trans are out. No big surprises other than I got it out without any mishaps, at least that I am aware of. The fingers on the pressure plate have some wear on them where the bearing rides. Is this normal and should it be replaced? The release bearing seems OK. The disc has about an eigth inch thickness on each disc. The push rod is definately worn so that will be replaced also along with the pin. Tried to post a pic but they are to large. Your recommendations please on what should be replaced regardless of the condition it appears to be in.

Havnt looked inside yet as am trying to get the grease off.

Thanks.
 
Not an expert here but 1/8 seems a bit thin. The way I always check is see how much is above the rivits. Like an eigth would be a new clutch disk well maybe 3/32.

However they cheep and best to replace while out. Saves pulling the engine again maybe before you need to for other things.

What say you guys.
 
Rj, i would at least put in a clutch kit consisting of a Pressure plate, throwout bearing and a clutch disc. Some wear on the fingers is normal, but if you put in new it becomes a moot point. take a good look at the disc, it will be marked as to which side goes to the flywheel. Be sure you dont put it in backwards. I am guessing that you are going to do the inner pin and bush as well as the pushrod. Also how does the face of the flywheel look? any burnt spots? glazing? if so it would be a good idea to have a shop clean it up for you.

Glad to hear your in it with both feet now, keep us posted. and if your interested in resizing your pics, a pretty good free program here https://www.irfanview.com/

mark
 
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