• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

MGB '78 mgb not starting

dumbagain

Freshman Member
Offline
took my mgb out for a ride this morning and it started and rode great. i returned home and when i went to start it again....nothing.

battery is good. when the key is turned all i get is one click coming from what is a relay or solenoid? in the engine bay. its to the right of the fuse block and is black and cylindrical.

where should i start with this?
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dumbagain:
took my mgb out for a ride this morning and it started and rode great. i returned home and when i went to start it again....nothing.

battery is good. when the key is turned all i get is one click coming from what is a relay or solenoid? in the engine bay. its to the right of the fuse block and is black and cylindrical.

where should i start with this?
<hr></blockquote>

Sounds like it "could" be a stuck starter solidoid. Try taping it (lightly) with a hammer an1d se if it unsticks.
 
Are you SURE the battery is good? Did you try jumpering it to another car battery?
 
The black cylindrical object is the starter relay. Find the lead from it that goes to the starter solenoid. It is usually red and black in color coding. Connect 12 volts on it and if it causes the starter to spin, you are not getting the 12 volts out of the relay, replace it. If the starter does not spin you either have a solenoid problem or a starter motor problem. The starter has to come out of the car and be fixed/replaced. Best regards.
Jack Farrington
 
It sounds like the starter solenoid. I had the same problem with my '76 Midget. Easy-ish fix, just be careful w/ electrical connections.
-William
 
My opinion: The most likely cause is a poor connection somewhere, probably at the starter itself, the battery, or the solonoid. Check them all for tightness - give each a good twist.

Doesn't cost anything & I'll bet it's the problem.

Please let us know what you find.
 
I made a mistake, The wire from the starter relay to the solenoid is usually red and white. Hope this helps. Jack Farrington
 
Hi Dumbargain,

First - Welcome to the Forum.

A lot of good advice. I don’t really have anything new to add. But as I had the same exact symptoms with my 78B about a year ago, I’d like to expound a little on what has already been said.

Here is what I would look at first.

1) Look at your Battery again. I don’t mean to beat a dead horse, but this is really important. Because you can’t really do much else until this is done. If you haven’t done so already take it down to a local Auto parts store to have it re-charged & load tested. This service is usually free and they will confirm if it’s really bad or not. Shouldn’t cost you anything except the money to replace your battery if it’s bad.
2) Check is your interconnections between the Battery, the Alternator and the Starter. Clean them off and retighten them to make sure you have a good connection. I know it sounds kind’a silly, but sometimes corrosion and/or grime at interconnecting points (terminals & connections) can build up & stifle your car’s charging circuit. Thus draining your battery or killing it out right. This is a simple thing to look at.
3) Check for bad wiring or cables. Another easy test - assuming that you have a voltmeter. Simply measure the resistance and/or the voltage drop between these connections. Ideally you should see readings as close to zero as possible (0.0Vs or 0.0 Ohms of resistance). High resistance wiring increases current loading and will diminish the ability of charging circuit.
4) Next you’ll need to look at your Alternator. Like your battery you can in most cases take it to an Auto Parts store to have it checked out. One sign that you have an Alternator problem is if your ignition light in the center of your dash comes on and stays on while you are driving. Normally this light doesn’t come on at all except when you start or turn off the car. If the Auto parts store can’t test it, you can do a simple test yourself with a voltmeter. After jumpstarting my B, I attached my voltmeter to battery terminals and observed that the voltage wouldn’t go over 12V at idle or under load. Nominal results for a good charging system should read about 13 to 14V for a low battery. In my case the Alternator turned out to be the problem with my MGB.

Anyway, most of these tests (or variations on them) can be found in the back of the MGB Moss Motors Catalog. Great reference book and cleanly laid out tests most of us can do in their garage. It describes these procedures as well as other tests you can do yourself in greater detail.

Good Luck!

cheers.gif


[ 07-02-2003: Message edited by: Bret ]</p>
 
Another quick test to see if it’s the battery or one of the other bits – Turn on your lights and try to start it.

If you hear the click and the lights get really dim there’s a good chance it’s the battery. Get out the jumper cables and try again.

If it clicks but the lights stay bright it’s probably somewhere in between the relay and the starter, maybe the solenoid or the wiring.


PC.
 
This is a common problem with all LBC's, and I've had it happen to me on just about every one I've ever owned.
In addition to all the above excellent advice,
check and make sure that the starter pinion isn't hung up in the ring gear. Some of the starters have a square shaft protruding from the end of the housing. Try turning that with a wrench, (5/16", I think), and see if you can manually disengage it. If that shaft isn't there, try gently rocking the car back and forth in 1st gear, and see if that will do it. If the pinion IS stuck, all the battery in the world won't turn the engine over. In the worst case scenario, you may have to remove the starter, and clean and lubricate the starter drive.
I hope this helps, and please let us all know what the problem turns out to be!
Bugeye58
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dumbagain:
well i didnt do anything to the car and i started right up the other day.

i am going to clean all the connections and retighten them just in case.

we'll see what happens.
<hr></blockquote>

Wow! Kismet I guess, but until this thread – I hadn’t given this problem another thought. However, yesterday (the 4th) morning before my trip to my sister’s house, I noticed the Ignition light was ever so faintly flickering on & off with the engine running.

Knowing that this wasn’t right and not wanting to run the risk of getting stuck on the side of the road someplace. I decided to be proactive & check the charging circuit as I described in my earlier post with a voltmeter. Low & behold my charging circuit wasn’t functioning either. 12.63V with the engine off. 11.34V during starting and 12.23V with the engine idling. Revving the engine saw little change in voltage.

To correct this and get it operational again, all I did was clean up the battery terminals and removed & replaced the Alternator connector about two or three times to make sure that any unseen corrosion and/or oxidation was scrapped off & removed for a better connection.

This seemed to do the trick - I monitored the voltage to the battery for the entire 25-minute trip that afternoon and it never got below 13.80volts (obviously charging). Please not that this value will change as the battery charges. Ideally this value should decrease with time as the battery is recharged………….

Because the “Prince of Darkness” can be cruel & unforgiving, at the most inopportune times. I highly recommend investing in a good voltmeter, if you don’t have one already. Handy tool for that unexpected bout with your cars’ Lucas Electronics.


cheers.gif
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Bret:


Because the “Prince of Darkness” can be cruel & unforgiving, at the most inopportune times. I highly recommend investing in a good voltmeter, if you don’t have one already. Handy tool for that unexpected bout with your cars’ Lucas Electronics.


cheers.gif
<hr></blockquote>

Amen to that. A good digital. They are getting less expensive all the time too. There is no way you can truly know what your charging system is doing without one.
yesnod.gif
 
well i didnt do anything to the car and i started right up the other day.

i am going to clean all the connections and retighten them just in case.

we'll see what happens.
 
Back
Top