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TR6 69 TR6 rear spring installation help

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I

ichthos

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I am in the process of putting in new rear stock springs. I have never done this before. It was easy to remove the old springs - all I had to do was put a jack underneath, loosen the link arm nut and pry the old spring out. Getting the new ones (which are about an inch taller than the old worn out springs) in is another story. I bought a spring compressor from Harbor Freight, but when I tighten them down, the compressor does give me the room to put the spring back in. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions?
Kevin
 
The external type spring compressors don't work well with our cars. A piece of threaded rod, 7/16" coarse thread(USS) should work, flat washers and nuts, and two pieces of metal larger than the frame/trailing arm holes at the ends of each spring. If you can find B7(120,000 psi) threaded rod, it will be safer and more durable.
Lesser quality threaded rod can strip and cause problems when you have a compressed spring.
 
Kevin-

I had the same problem when I installed my new coil springs.
I found that by disconnecting the rear axel at the fifferential
flange; I was able to lower the trailing arm just enough
to slide in the new coil springs. Use new lok-nuts on the diff
bolts.

Here's a complete "How To" for the rear suspension.
In it, you will find how to disconnect the axle from the diffy.
All the other stuff is for a complete rebuild- when your time arrives.

https://www.scribd.com/doc/92509/Trailing-Arm-Bushings-Final

best of luck to you!!

Post us a few photos

tinster
 
I do it this way: with the car on jack stands and a jack supporting the trailing arm, undo the shock link, then lower the jack until the trailing arm is low enough to remove the old spring and put in the new one. Compress the new spring by raising the trailing arm with the jack and reconnect the shock link.

Scott
 
My plan was to do exactly as you described, Scott. However, after I loosened the shock arm to remove the old spring, I could remove the old spring, but there does not seem to be enough room to put back in the new spring because it is about an inch higher. Is this just a matter of elbow greese and forcing it in without a spring compressor? Tinster, I have a copy of the directions you wrote. In the article you mention just placing the spring in place. Something is wrong, because there is no way I have the room to just place the spring back in. I don't know how to post a picture with the new forum. If I figure out how to do it, I'll post it.
 
Ooops, I misunderstood your post. Thought you had only loosened the shock arm link, but you've released it completely.

Tinster is saying that you will also have to undo the axel flange from the differential. The axel is preventing the trailing arm from dropping far enough. For some reason I didn't have that issue. Maybe my bellows were so rotted that the axel halves slid far enough apart to allow the trailing arm to drop? :blush:
 
Minesweeper said:
Ooops, Tinster is saying that you will also have to undo the axel flange from the differential. The axel is preventing the trailing arm from dropping far enough. :blush:
Click to expand...

Yup, on my car the axle hit the frame before I had clearance for the new spring.
Taking the four bolts out the diff flange did the trick for me.

Tinster
 
I know the problem has been solved but I wondering if people are using the spacers that they sell. Goodparts sells different heights. I don't use them myself because a mechanic who races triumphs and repairs told me you want the back end lower so that it grips when you go around corners. He has been working on and racing for over 30 years so I took his advice.
He said squat is what the Triumph designers wanted. Now if squat is caused by worn springs thats a whole different story.
I hope this doesn't open a can of worms. I was just stating the way I run. Everyone is entitled to setup their car as they see fit. Thanks
 
Thanks so much for all your help. I doubt I could afford to drive this car if I had to have someone else work on it. Besides, its fun to do the work myself (most of the time.)I'll try removing the four bolts when I get home. By the way, I wasn't replacing the springs because the rear was lower. I either had to replace the spring or put in spacers because the inside of the rear tires was wearing out from worn springs. I knew there was something wrong before the tire wear because my car was leaning 1/2" to the right anyway.
 
Mine was 1/2" down on the left!!

And most of the bushings were rotted down
to metal on metal.

d :thumbsup:
 
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