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67EtypeClutch MastCyl

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Trying to install rebuild kit for Girling master cylinder for clutch, embarassed to ask: How do I get the piston system out of the cylinder? Maybe compressed air in end fluid fitting? Lacking confidence after temp gauge fiasco--whodda thunk a gauge is fuse dependent?
Thanks, J
 
I watched that thread. 10V was the voltage out of the stabilizer you should have seen at the gauges, BEFORE you started throwing parts at it. It appears so much has been changed out or adjusted, you have no idea where you are with it.
You start out at 45, you've tweaked it about to the limits to get some kind of reading.
Like a speedometer, if it's off, you can A) get it rebuilt giving final drive and tyre size, B) add a corrective multiplier gearbox in the cable, or C) tweak the internal springs to be "close".
Once you've done "C", it's go back and do "A".
What was your voltage to the gauges?
What is it now?
Once you find the problem, getting the temp gauge to read correctly is going to take a bit of work, again.


Once you remove the circlip and pushrod, tapping the open end of the cylinder on a rag on the workbench should get the piston out. If not, a kit probably won't be a permanent fix, as if it's that gummed up, the bore is likely toast.

Air always works...rubber tipped, wrap the open end with a rag, as when the piston comes out using air, it's going to spray bits of brake fluid all over, unless you are real careful and stop when enough of the piston is exposed to allow you to grasp it and withdraw it manually.

And, yes, who would have thought an electrically-controlled gauge could be fuse dependent.
 
Thanks TOC for the very helpful reply,replaced fuse and then gauges all working fine, water temp within about 5-10degC trying to use slots on back to get it just right. Will give mast cyl a few taps and then try the compressed air, again,thanks for the thoughtful reply. J
 
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