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TR4/4A 67 IRS Damper arm/link removal help

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J

JDstr4a

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Finally back at it, and need some help with removing the lever and damper arm connection. Do I need to remove the whole damper and have the link pressed out? Seems to be solidly in there and the new ones seem to have a taper. Maybe I'm just short of patience.
Thanks.
JD
 
On my (solid axle) TR3, I use one of these
41O6%2BjEkT-L.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-619...1435357305&sr=1-41&keywords=tie+rod+separator
 
Thanks Randall. Is there clearance to do it on the car, or would you recommend taking the whole assembly off and doing it on the bench? Do I need another tool to put the new one in?
 
Sorry, I don't know about doing it on the car on a 4A. It can be done on a TR3, though.

Easy way to install a new one is to use a plain nut the first time, to pull the taper until it locks. Then you can remove the plain nut and install a new Nyloc. (Nylocs shouldn't be reused.) Or another route is to just use a big pair of pliers to hold the joint together while you tighten the nut.
 
It can definitely be done on the car. The tool I have is like Randall's (now available from Moss), and though a tight fit, it does fit. Having said that, I'm unsure of your question. You don't mention the ball joint or tie rods, and at first I thought you meant the rear shock arms of 4A. You are talking about the ball joint between the upper control arms, right? Note that Moss (and your local parts dealer) also sells a small separator used more for tie rods, and if you're talking about the rear lever shocks it's best suited to that as well in my opinion. You'll know it when you see it online, or Randall or I can shoot a picture of that too. Or maybe this one is clear enough:
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Perhaps I'm confused, but I thought we were talking about this joint at the rear

untitled_1.jpg~original
 
Randall is correct, I'm trying to remove #20 from #17. The ds damper link is shot though the dampers seem fine and are not leaking. I've replaced the springs and thought I should replace both damper links while she was up on stands.
 
Picked up a separator locally and have one replaced. Can't seem to find a torque spec for the damper arm to link nut. Any suggestions?
Thanks
JD
 
Done, clunking stopped, thanks for all your support. Front wheel bearings next, but too nice out to start today!
 
Oops, sorry I'm late. But I think this is the torque spec for that nut.
untitled_4.jpg~original
 
I saw that, but the suspension arm side of the link is 9/16 and the damper side is 11/16, so I just "tightened" them and I'll keep an eye on them. What a difference replacing these made. Thanks again for your help.
 
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