-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
MGB-GT '67 GT - Pulling Engine - Disconnect Driveshaft?
- Thread starter AngliaGT
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
Yes, if you're removing the engine and transmission as a unit. Unbolt the driveshaft at the tranny end; four bolts, and be sure to support the 'shaft once you've unfastened it.
Offline
Yup. Undo the four nuts/bolts on the tranny output flange, support the shaft, unbolt the crossmember from the frame supported with a jack under the trans, lower to access the four bolts holding the crossmember to the trans (makes getting the bolts easier to remove/install).
Offline
Pulling engine and trans as a unit is better than trying to detach the box, suspend it and pull the engine. Putting it back in is a real task to get all lined up and bolted together. Done it both ways, only once did I separate the two. Dozens of times the "right way." Much less grief.
My usual order is:
Wiring/electrical first, trans reverse light switch, too (if it has an O/D trans, don't forget that wire! Ask me how I know).
Fluids (fuel, coolant, hydraulics). Slave cylinder can be removed with the two bolts and using mechanic's wire or cord, kept out of the way (use a long tie-wrap to hold the slave piston from escaping).
Mechanicals last. Shifter removal, the radiator by unbolting the bolts of the support and pulling it all as a unit. Disconnect the driveshaft from trans (I usually put a paint mark on both parts of the flange so it goes back in the same location). Exhaust/intake removed as a unit. Use a jack on the gearbox to keep it from dropping and undo the four crossmember bolts, lower the jack to access the bolts on the gearbox holding the crossmember in place. Then with the car on its wheels, put some tension on the engine with the hoist and undo the motor mount bolts.
It is likely the trans crossmember mounts are shot, so expect to replace them.
It takes a bit of fettling to get the unit out, it requires a good bit of angle to clear all the bits you can scratch or dent. Take your time, it will come out.
Another time saver: You can rope the hood into a near vertical position with using the rear hatch/trunk lock as an anchor point, the need to remove the hood is eliminated.
And as always: "reassembly is the reverse of the above." :wink:
My usual order is:
Wiring/electrical first, trans reverse light switch, too (if it has an O/D trans, don't forget that wire! Ask me how I know).
Fluids (fuel, coolant, hydraulics). Slave cylinder can be removed with the two bolts and using mechanic's wire or cord, kept out of the way (use a long tie-wrap to hold the slave piston from escaping).
Mechanicals last. Shifter removal, the radiator by unbolting the bolts of the support and pulling it all as a unit. Disconnect the driveshaft from trans (I usually put a paint mark on both parts of the flange so it goes back in the same location). Exhaust/intake removed as a unit. Use a jack on the gearbox to keep it from dropping and undo the four crossmember bolts, lower the jack to access the bolts on the gearbox holding the crossmember in place. Then with the car on its wheels, put some tension on the engine with the hoist and undo the motor mount bolts.
It is likely the trans crossmember mounts are shot, so expect to replace them.
It takes a bit of fettling to get the unit out, it requires a good bit of angle to clear all the bits you can scratch or dent. Take your time, it will come out.
Another time saver: You can rope the hood into a near vertical position with using the rear hatch/trunk lock as an anchor point, the need to remove the hood is eliminated.
And as always: "reassembly is the reverse of the above." :wink:
steve00136
Freshman Member
Offline
I pulled my engine and gearbox earlier this year and wish I had the advice above from DrEntropy. The only thing I would add is to use a leveller on the hoist - makes it a lot easier to manipulate the engine.
YakkoWarner
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I had a leveller when I pulled mine, it did help alot.
Also, because of how much angle you need to get the engine/gearbox out as a unit, it was helpful to put the rear of the car up on jackstands set fairly high and keep the front wheels on the ground. That made it easier to get the correct ange for removal without having to go quite so sky-high on the engine hoist.