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65 Sprite Clutch

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O

owby

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The speedo is the least of my worries. We tried to do the jlaird thing over the 4th--drove 110 mi from Kalispell to Troy for the parade but by the time we got there the clutch wouldn't work. This thing has a new transmission, clutch kit, slave cyl behind a rebuilt 1275. Should work, right? Could something be blocking the pressure plate from releasing? It moves enough to depress the fingers on the pressure plate about 3/16 inch--not enough to shift or even get it into gear. It's just enuf to depress me like crazy after all this work!! The hydraulics seem to be pumping lots of pressure but the job isn't getting done.
Thanks for any info.
 
I could be the wrong slave cylinder push rod or incorrect slave cylinder. These are different on the 1275 due to the diaphram clutch. I can't recall but I think even the clutch master cylinder has a different bore (maybe someone else will pipe in with that info).
Also, look for a bent throwout fork.
~Click Here~ to see a recent discussion about some of these topics.

All of this is assuming the clutch hydraulics are fully bled with no air in the system.

Also, check the hole at the top of the clutch pedal. If it is elongated (even just a *little* bit) you will lose much of your motion and "waste" most of your travel. This hole connects the clutch master cylinder push rod to the top of the clutch pedal. I usually just weld these up and redrill them. I just did this to my present race car....it's a common problem.
 
I'm with Nial, if it was working and it's new, I'd be starting by working through the mechanical linkages. I hope it's not something that requires pulling the engine but it sounds like you are loosing leverage somewhere
 
You could try sliding the slave pushrod out and putting a nut behind it. Effectively lengthening it a bit. See what that does do it. But it started the trip okay, then got worse? Did you bleed the daylights outta the thing?
 
Thanks for the info. I've decided to "bleed the daylights outta it" and build an adjustable pushrod as per Hap's suggestion from long ago--cut and thread with a barrel nut in the middle. I'm trying to avoid motor removal:(
 
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