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62 center shift gearbox

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starting winter checkups...
last year i built oil catch pans for the bell housing hole and the rear of the gearbox. pulled them down to clean up and the back one had just traces oil in it. No big deal.

the bell housing one though had about 5 oz of oil in it. since the engine oil level has never changed on the stick and the gearbox stick is at the low level i have to assume it is mostly if not all gearbox oil. since i added the pan, i have put around 600 miles on the car. to give some reference.

my only worry is that i will get oil on the clutch and that will begin slipping. i can always keep an eye on the oil no more than i drive and top up as needed.

but the clutch would force my hand and while it is winter anyway.... might be a good time. Clutch has been fine so far as has the gearbox.

questions:
1) can i pull the gearbox alone?
2) do i have to pull it out thru the passenger compartment or can i drop out under?
3) can i get to all the nuts/bolts on the bell housing with the engine in place? tri-carb engine and at least the top nut on the carb side looks tough to get to.
4) if i pull the gearbox, and assuming most of the leaking is from that front seal, can i replace from the outside? or must the gearbox come apart?
5) is it even worth it for 4-5 oz over 600 miles?

this was a rebuilt gearbox still in a crate that came with the car. it shifts great and all but it may have sat for a while so thinking the seal may have dried out. i seem to remember some advice on the front bolts from a thread when i was painting the gearbox. grade 8 washers... thread sealant... and i think i tried to do whatever was suggested. so again figure it is a front seal problem.

thanks for the suggestions
TL
 
The gearbox can come out from inside the car , seats have to come out and the console tunnel etc . Its heavy you need a helper . Pull off the bellhousing and replace the seal , its probably still going to leak .
Remember its not an oil leak its an all British patent pending automated rust proofing system :encouragement::highly_amused:
 
DD.
Some on this forum have suggested copper sealing washers under the bolts that attach the bell housing to the transmission.
I installed a new front bearing with integrated oil seal, in addition to a new front oil seal years ago. Belt and suspenders...
Good luck.
Douglas
 
so if it is most likely still going to leak... why go thru it? just to leak a little less?
that was my thought for leaving it alone as long as it is not enough oil to affect the clutch...

or are the newer seals better?

since i am replacing the gear shift and the emergency brake handle, i already have the seats out and the tunnel out. which got me to thinking this might be a good time to work on a seal... if it is worth it.
 
Probably wont make you feel any better about your oil leak but here goes .
Im storing a very expensive Lamborghini Gallardo over the winter for a friend .
I had to move it forward a little bit to get another vehicle in behind it . I just pushed it myself didn't start it up .
In the three weeks it had been sitting it left way more oil on my shop floor than my Healeys deposit in a year .....and that Lambo cost how much !!!!!!!!!
 
My BT7 leaked oil from the front gearbox seal for many years. When I restored the car 5 years ago, I separated the transmission from the engine and did not find any oil on the clutch or pressure plate and never experienced any slippage. It appears the oil leaks directly down the front of the transmission and exists the beep housing thru the hole in the bottom. I did install a new front seal and after 2 years of driving, the front seal still leaks about the same as before.
So, if you want to go thru the exercise, you've got nothing to lose, but may not wind up any further ahead.
 
Rob Glasgow said:
My BT7 leaked oil from the front gearbox seal for many years. When I restored the car 5 years ago, I separated the transmission from the engine and did not find any oil on the clutch or pressure plate and never experienced any slippage. It appears the oil leaks directly down the front of the transmission and exists the beep housing thru the hole in the bottom. I did install a new front seal and after 2 years of driving, the front seal still leaks about the same as before.
So, if you want to go thru the exercise, you've got nothing to lose, but may not wind up any further ahead.
Click to expand...

My experience as well, though I had better luck with the front gearbox seal: no leaks (except when I overfill the box).
 
Rob/Bob
i also get some oil on the cover for the clutch lever. Looks like oil trying to come thru there. but so far no clutch slippage.

is there any threads or videos on changing that seal?

Thanks all
 
Drone Dog said:
... is there any threads or videos on changing that seal?

Thanks all
Click to expand...

I've not seen any (but I haven't looked, either). You have to pull the gearbox/bellhousing, then R&R the seal in the usual fashion; e.g. use a seal puller, or put a couple sheet metal screws in the outer metal part--what's that called, anyway?--then pull with some pliers, etc. Inspect the first motion (input) shaft to make sure there's no groove, and put sealant on the outside of the new seal and some oil on the rubber part that rides on the shaft.

Edit: With the gearbox out, check the release bearing lever for side play and, of course, renew the bearing if it needs it. You might sleep better if you unbolt the clutch cover and have a look at the clutch and flywheel (be sure to put the cover back on with the same alignment; they might have been balanced together). With the box out, you might as well have a look at the rear seal on the OD, and check your U-joints and pilot ('spigot') bearing (what's that they say about "Shipwright's Disease?"). Getting the box in/out is the big job, checking those other things might add an hour or two.
 
Good luck Drone Dog appears that a transmission removal is going to be on your winter's punch list. After about the 6th time removing an AH trans you get pretty good at it. I agree with Rob's assessment: leakage from trans seal flows directly in front then out the bottom weep hole - the one with a cotter pin stuck into place. Inside the bell housing you might find a "ring of oil", slug outward from any of the rotating parts. So all this flowing and fligging probably keeps the pressure plate, clutch and flywheel relatively free of oil. Since you have the trans cover off you should be able to snake an endoscope - purchased inexpensively on-line - through the starter mount hole, past the flywheel and onto the inside of bell housing for a good inspection. GONZO
 
well after looking with the scope thru the clutch fork cover and some mirror work, i think i am going to just leave it alone for this winter. when i pulled the clutch fork cover, there was no oil laying in any of the depressions or even a big coating of oil on anything.

thinking about 4 oz lost over 600 miles or so would probably not cross my mind if i had not built the catch pan to hold it. it is not much trouble to pull the seats or tunnel again if it becomes necc.

when i put the engine in, i put in a new clutch, throw-out bearing, all universal joints, and pilot bearing. all of them should be in good shape. probably less than 2000 miles over the last two years. rear of the gearbox leaks very little oil. over the last 600 miles it was not even worth wiping out the pan.

Gonzo,
i may just pull the starter and do that as an added check.

thanks all.
 
My BJ7 leaked oil from some where inside the bell housing.

I was forced to remove the gear box and bell housing when my clutch started slipping (pre - engine rebuild) I found a raft of problems in there - the clutch housing had a broken spring in it, the thrust bearing was worn, and not uniformly, due to the broken spring, the fork bearings were shot , the pilot bearing at the end of the crank shaft fell out on the floor and was stepped and oval.

As there was so much that needed attention I decided to go the whole hog and put in a rear oil seal on the crank shaft, and renewed the oil seal on the bell housing as well. The net result was that it still leaked oil but not so much.

You pays your money and takes your chances

:cheers:

Bob
 
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