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60 TR 3 A Control Head & Steering Wheel

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

Darth Vader
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I just installed the steering wheel and I slid the stator and the control head into the steering column and I find myself with a 1/4" gap between the control head and the steering wheel. I have an uneasy feeling that I have a problem. Am I right?
Your thoughts greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 

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The stator tube projects out the other end of the steering column where it is locked in place and sealed by the compression fitting & nut. You should be able to adjust this gap to whatever you want it to be by moving the stator tube up or down, and then locking it in position with the compression fitting. 1/4" sounds like a little much -- but there IS a gap between the control head and the wheel. They must nut rub on each other as the wheel turns and the control head stays put.
 
I disagree. The back plate of the control head must be seated into the mating surface of the steering wheel, where it is gripped by 3 tiny pointed screws through the wheel hub. It looks to me as though you didn't back the screws out enough, and the plate is resting on top of the screws instead of under them. It has to be under them for the turn signals to cancel (the plate is what turns the cancelling mechanism while the head is held from rotating by the stator tube).

DSCF0004.jpg
 
This looks like the problem I had. I even took out the set screws to make double sure they were not holding things up and still the gap. Turned out that my new control head I bought from TRF had the plate diameter about .010" too large. A little filing/sanding and it sat down perfectly. The gap on mine now is under 1/8" whereas it was over 5/16" or so.

Jim
 
You may have hit on the problem Jim. My plate is about .020" too large.
My thanks to all of you for your responces.
Randall I guess you are referring to the "grub" screws. I bought some from one of the big two parts houses, don't remember which one, when I took them out of storage Sunday I found them to be just standard hex set screws. No tapered at all, so I guess my first step will be to put a taper on them and then to file/grind down the plate.
I hate do overs!!!!!!!
Thanks all, Dick
 
Tinkerman said:
I found them to be just standard hex set screws.
Click to expand...
Arggh! I hate it when vendors supply the wrong hardware, without mentioning that it's only "close enough". For the sake of some future owner/mechanic, how about also cutting a screwdriver slot?
 
I believe the screws go in at a slight angle, so do not need to be tapered. I just did this a few weeks ago. I bought plain flat head screws, cut their little heads off and took my dremmel tool and made a slot in them. I had to drill out the originals and retap the steering wheel, which is why I discovered the holes are angled. If the plate sets in the recess the screws should catch it just fine.
 
The screws are catching the plate on the edge, I suspect because of the .020 oversize. I will resize the plate first. Go from there. Guess its time for the Dremel.
Thanks, Dick
 
I just checked my screws and they go in flat. If there is an angle I can't see it. So I will taper them in addition to resizing the plate.
Thanks all!
Dick
 
I used a new head too. It didn't take anything fancy to get it to fit. I used a metal file...just 3 or 4 passes along the edge of the disc, right at the locations were the set screws are. After that it slipped right into place.

John
 
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