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TR2/3/3A 56 TR3 pinion seal
- Thread starter prb51
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TR4nut
Yoda
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Kurtis, one our our forum members, has a really good web page on this topic, albeit for a TR4:
pinion seal replacement
Looks like the trick which I'll someday use myself is a good slide hammer to ease the process.
Randy
pinion seal replacement
Looks like the trick which I'll someday use myself is a good slide hammer to ease the process.
Randy
PeterK
Yoda
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I just finished changing the one in my 58 3A. I used the slide hammer as suggested, drilling all the way through both sides of the pinion seal metal. On the first try, the screw that came with the slide hammer broke, but you can use any screw OK. Worked great and luckily the pinion flange bearing surface was like new, no pits or scratches. Make sure you drain the fluid first and always use new lock nuts on the driveshaft flange.
PeterK
Yoda
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Look at the new seal as a guide to make sure the screw is long enough to go through both sides. The seal is totally encased in metal.
Drill all the way through the old seal being careful not to drill too deep, just through the seal. The screw does not have to be screwed all the way in so a long screw is OK, just screw it in to go though both sides of the old seal. Then hold the slide hammer horizontal and hammer back until you start to see the edge coming out. Keep hammering until the seal is completely out. It may be easier remove if you drill 2 holes, one opposite each other, but I just drilled 1 and hammered it out.
Use a metal pipe or large socket that is roughly just a little smaller than the outside diameter of the seal to tap the new one in place, going around and around until is is flush with the surface of the diff.
Then replace the washer and nut, aligning the marks you made before removing it.
Drill all the way through the old seal being careful not to drill too deep, just through the seal. The screw does not have to be screwed all the way in so a long screw is OK, just screw it in to go though both sides of the old seal. Then hold the slide hammer horizontal and hammer back until you start to see the edge coming out. Keep hammering until the seal is completely out. It may be easier remove if you drill 2 holes, one opposite each other, but I just drilled 1 and hammered it out.
Use a metal pipe or large socket that is roughly just a little smaller than the outside diameter of the seal to tap the new one in place, going around and around until is is flush with the surface of the diff.
Then replace the washer and nut, aligning the marks you made before removing it.
PeterK
Yoda
Offline
The nut is only torqued around 90lbs. so, if you chock the rear wheels front and back, AND have someone hold the outside of the rear tires while you loosen the nut, it should come off easily.
Just mark the position of the castelated nut before you start, and mark the outside edge of the diff next to the mark you placed on the nut, and count the number of exposed threads on the pinion. Then after installing the seal, tighten the nut so the marks line up AND the number of exposed threads is the same as before. The cotter pin holes should still line up. If you're using a torque wrench (which you should if you have one), the torque reading should be approx 90 foot pounds. This insures that the preload on the pinion bearing is set as before (which was hopefully correct before you started).
Just mark the position of the castelated nut before you start, and mark the outside edge of the diff next to the mark you placed on the nut, and count the number of exposed threads on the pinion. Then after installing the seal, tighten the nut so the marks line up AND the number of exposed threads is the same as before. The cotter pin holes should still line up. If you're using a torque wrench (which you should if you have one), the torque reading should be approx 90 foot pounds. This insures that the preload on the pinion bearing is set as before (which was hopefully correct before you started).