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TR4/4A 4A convertible top rebuilding sequence

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H

HarryL

Jedi Trainee
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Starting with a NEW! top frame assembly; I was
wondering what's the correct sequence in getting the job completed.
At the moment the frame assembly is mounted to the car and the latches are loosely fitted.
Looks like I start from the rear and work forward. Retainer bar with the lift -a-dots and webbing.
At what point do I get the top involved.
Harry
 
Harry, well done for giving it a go, not many will. If I can give you only one piece of advise it would be to not to try and get it real tight, especially on the 4 snaps right behind the door, major problem in the future when it shrinks a bit. The webbing will do the same, so on installation firm is good, tight is not. You can make it look really good and tight when you first get it on, but two years of storage down the road and needing it on a cloud bust, you will say many bad words.

Good and give me a PM if you have trouble and I will give you a call and see if I can help.

Wayne
 
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I would agree with that advice about not stretching it too tight, but on the other hand I felt like I had to stretch my top fairly tight just to get the various edges of the top, such as the 4 snaps along the side already mentioned, where they need to be, i. e. edges beyond where the snaps go). Yes start from the rear, fold it in half to find the center at the rear and work your way forward.

As far as shrinkage, I put the top up for the winter to keep it stretched out, and also make sure to put it on out in the hot sun a few days in the summer.
 
Will tackle this job this weekend. Forgot to order up some lift a dots.
First time applying these to a car. Yes, ordered some extras.
Is there any specific position for the rear cross hoop ?
Right now I have it positioned just behind the bolt that adjusts the frame.
 
Thanks Darrell. Exactly what I'm looking for.
Now I need to get up the courage to start the project.
Harry
 
Once you poke the first hole you are all in :chuncky: Sidewalk chalk is your friend, makes it easy to mark where you are going to poke.
 
I used a hammer and 1/2" center punch on the lift a dots with a socket which was held in a hole drilled for it in a board. The !/4" drive end of the socket held the male end of the fastener which worked well to attach the rear of the top to the retainer bar. That went on the car and the straps were adjusted. Then I used spray contact cement to get the tension correct on the fore edge of the top before fastening. Snaps around the rear side windows were last with one of those cheap little tools and a hammer.
 
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