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Wedge 4.9 liter in the TR8 finally

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tr8todd

Jedi Knight
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I sent out a 4.6 to Woody back in January to be stroked with lighter recipricals and roller lifters. It also got some reworked heads and a .550 lift cam. I got the motor back around June 1, but I have been so busy with work that it just sat there. This past weekend I installed the pan, front cover and intake. I'm still waiting on the valve covers. They are out getting painted. Yesterday I installed it in the engine bay and put the car back up on the lift. I hope to get the flywheel, clutch and tranny installed today so that I can get an accurate measurement for the drive shaft I need to have made up. The car has a 8.8 rear end out of a Lincoln MK VII, so the stock drive shaft is a no go. It feels good to be working on the car again. It has been at a stand still since around mid March. Hopefully I can finish the car by this fall and get it out of here. The car belongs to a buddy of mine who is away on active military duty. He just upped for another year, so he is in no hurry to get the car back. I think he appreciates the storage and would like it if I finished it the day he gets back home.
 
What a great homecoming present he's gonna have!
 
Todd-I got some engine work for you to do too!
 
TR6BILL said:
With all that giddyup, would be nice to have some whoa!
Click to expand...

I'm betting that Lincoln rear axle has disc's already and it is probably getting larger discs in front too. Should have plenty of whoa with good tires on it as well.
 
Here's what we got so far. Engine gets new Mallory ignition and distributor, big tube coated headers, custom exhaust, Quick Fuel 650 CFM carb, Edelbrock intake, high torque starter, Center Force clutch, new engine mounts, water pump, hoses, big aluminum radiator, and an electric fan with a variable temp switch. All new suspension bushings, Koni adjustable shocks, front threaded coil overs, new ball joints, new tie rods, new manual steering rack, big front brake kit with Willwood calipers, stock Lincoln rear discs, all new brake lines and braided hoses, 3.27 posi rear, 1" Chevy master cylinder with an adjustable proportioning valve, new panasport 15X7s with new Yokos, and a custom driveshaft complete the underpinnings. New paint on a real low mileage body with zero rust. Topped with a canvas Robbins top, new door panels, carpet, rear trim panel, seat covers, roll bar, and a new steering wheel round out the interior. In addition to all of those new parts, everything was removed, cleaned, and painted or powder coated. Clutch hydraulics were rebuilt by White Post, and given one of Ted's braided hoses. I haven't added up all of the slips yet, but we are certainly going to hit $25K on this one. His budget was 30K because that is what a new Honda S2000 would have cost him. This is one I can't wait to drive. His last car had a 4.6 and was a hoot. We used that rusty thing as the donor car for this one. I rebuilt that car for him about 10 years ago. While he was stationed down in Cuba, his bitter ex girlfriend would drive his car in the snow and park it back in the garage all salty. He came home to a rust bucket.
 
TR8todd.... where do you get your rollbsrs from and do you have picture of the ones you use? we have a local raceshop who offer to custom make me on if I designed it and i have a few ideas but am looking for more ideas.
 
I make my own. I've built full cages in Porches, BMWs, TRs, VWs, and Miatas, including a full tube chassis for a beetle drag car. The only off the shelf bars are built by Kirk racing. Auto Power might make one too, but I've never seen one. Whether you buy a bar from Woody or Ted, you are getting a Kirk roll bar. Mass produced ones have to make sure to leave plenty of clearance. That clearance comes at the expense of the occupants space. I like to keep the bars as tight to the body of the car as possible and out of the occupants way. If you are going to design your own, start and end with the SCCA rule book. You can down load the cage specs for a showroom stock/ Improved Touring cage from SCCA.COM. I would suggest using some DOM 1.5" X .120" wall thickness tubing. You can use a minimum bend radius of 4.5". That will allow you to get a nicer fit than a larger thinner wall tubing. Most shops will use 1.75" X .095" ERW tubing. While the size is OK, the ERW tubing is not allowed in SCCA cages. Add to that the fact that the bend radius has to be three times the diameter of the pipe, and you get an even more obtrusive roll bar. Only circle track and drag racers use ERW tubing. I had a guy ask for a cage in an RX7. I told him it would be around $2k for the cage. He thought he was slick and went to the local cage builder that builds street rod stuff. What he got for his $1200, was a drag race cage that shouldn't be used at track events, and can't be made into a legal SCCA road race cage.
 
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