#38 brake fluid change & clutch repair

[GTP1960]

I ended up using valvolene DOT 3/4. My lines & master are all fairly new & a Moss paper ( see link below) stated that a full parts rebuild would be in order to go to DOT 5, due to even the smallest amount of old fluid remaining turning into a contaminated sludge. (could be another method to increase brake part sales, but it confirmed what Marv & CJD pointed out). I will plan on DOT 5 conversion, when the car dictates.
I borrowed a vacuum bleeder from advance auto, but it didn't work. It would create a suction while testing, but would not draw any fluid from the nipple for some reason. So I ended up using the hose & 1/2 full bottle method, pressing the pedals with a broom handle.

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/220-410.pdf

The old fluid was pretty ugly. But the brakes & clutch feel a lot better now.

thx again.

A buddy came over and helped me re-bleed the clutch.
it just didn't feel right & I wanted to control the nipple valve, between pumps. Worked much better, this way.
however I purchased a pneumatic bleeder from HFT & will use it when I convert to DOT 5 sometime this winter.

after reading a few more post I realized my vacuum trial didn't work because of air leakage around the threads.
sounds like a little Teflon tape on the nipple threads will fix that.
I installed the return clutch spring ( connects the clutch shaft to the slave cylinder mounting plate), to help keep the clutch plate from dragging.

Didn't even know I needed one until I saw a diagram on the forum.
it does make the clutch pressure and action more uniform and reliable.
before I installed it the clutch might disengage when the pedal returned an inch or 5 inches.

it was an easy fix. And only cost $6.00 for the spring & small teardrop shaft connector.