35 degrees?

[steveHealey3000]

I mentioned in a previous post ( Post 702121 ) that I should purchase a timing light. But before I did that, I took the car into a local British Car mechanic to diagnose the strangeness of cutting out at 2500 RPM.

He found the problem ( bad spark plug cables ) but also found that the timing was set at 35° at 600 RPM :confuse: . I haven't owned the car long (about 2 months) - is there any reason that it would have been set that high?

The timing is now reset, and the cables replaced (with higher performance Bosch). It runs like a dream (no more dieseling, smooth up to 5000 RPM).

 

[steveHealey3000]

BTW, the mechanic was great, in case anybody needs a referral in North San Diego County. But I'm still buying the timing light so that I don't need to rely too much on outside help

 

[Bob_Spidell]

You'll need an 'advance timing light' (aka 'advance meter') since Healeys don't have graduated marks on the harmonic balancer. They usually cost a little more than a timing light.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Total advance, including centrifugal, is about 32*

The beauty of an aftermarket dampener.

 

[Healeysince59]

Advance at 600 RPM should be in single digits, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. With centrifugal, as Randy says, you should have about 32 degrees but you won't see that much below 3000 RPM.

Marv J

 

[steveHealey3000]

You'll need an 'advance timing light' (aka 'advance meter') since Healeys don't have graduated marks on the harmonic balancer. They usually cost a little more than a timing light.

Advance at 600 RPM should be in single digits, maybe 6 or 7 degrees. With centrifugal, as Randy says, you should have about 32 degrees but you won't see that much below 3000 RPM.

Marv J

Thanks for all of the info. I have lots to learn, but as Henry Ford said, <span style="font-style: italic">"Anyone who keeps learning stays young. The greatest thing in life is to keep your mind young"</span>

- Steve

 

[Roger007]

I need some help to set my timing on my 3000 mk1, I don't have the original crank dampner anymore but I installed a unit by Pro Race. The lines start at 0 and increments of 10 and on.
I would like to know where on those marks should I be trying to dial my timing light at? my distributor was serviced by Jeff from advance and he suggest that I set my timing at 10 to 14 degrees BTDC, but the dampner does not have any reading lines below the 0 mark. does anyone have any experience using pro race dampners?

Cheers

Roger

 

[Randy Forbes]

Put a paint mark at the 34* mark, and your timing light at zero; just a hunch, as I don't have an "advance" timing light.

With the engine (steadily) revved high enough to get full centrifugal advance, rotate the distributor to get the strobe flashing on the 34* mark on the dampener with the pointer on the timing chain cover.

My dampener:

 

[Roger007]

Thank you Randy.

I have an advance timing light would that make it easier for me?

Thanks
Roger

 

[HealeyPassion]

FWIW category.. mine ran best with 36d total over 3,500 rpm... setup on a chassis dyno. I'm at 10d static (advance disconnected).

Cheers,
Steve

 

[GregW]

Thank you Randy.

I have an advance timing light would that make it easier for me?

Thanks
Roger

Hi Roger,
That depends, if you have a multi-spark ignition, the advance timing lights don't read correctly (in my experience). If you have the standard ignition or a Pertronix, mark the damper at TDC and set your timing light to 34°.

 

[Roger007]

Thank you all for your advise, I marked the dampner at 34 degrees got my wife to keep the revs at about 2500 shot the light and presto! my car is making lots of power now...

But now it seems that the engine runs on when turning off the ignition?

Roger

 

[Genos2]

Roger. make sure carb adjustment is not too rich& idle speed is set to spec. cheers Genos2

 

[Keoke]

But now it seems that the engine runs on when turning off the ignition?

Roger, what is your Idle speed on the car's tach???---Keoke

 

[Roger007]

Idle speed is (Lumpy) on tach is about 850 to 900 rpm.

I don't have a stock cam anymore, it's a fast road cam, would this cause the run on's?

Thanks
Roger

 

[Keoke]

Possibly if you can not smooth out the Idle below this indicated rpm, the engine may be running above the rpm shown on the tach, Which can cause runon.--Keoke

 

[Roger007]

I guess I will try and bring the idle down a bit more, but my concern about bringing the idle down is that at cold starts the engine will not stay running without the choke untill the engine warms up.

Setting the carbs;

on the service manual it says to turn the slow running valve down till it bottoms and un screw 2.25 turns.

But on my Norman Nock tech book it tells me to bottom out and uncrew 3.50.

I suppose these are just guide lines and alows you to make the adjustments from there.

Thanks
Roger

 

[GregW]

I suppose these are just guide lines and alows you to make the adjustments from there.

They really become guide lines when you start modifying the engine. Depending on how much you've changed the airflow through the engine, you may need different needles in the carbs too.

 

[Keoke]

" my concern about bringing the idle down is that at cold starts the engine will not stay running without the choke untill the engine warms up".

This is normal for the Healey engine Roger.--Keoke

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I guess I will try and bring the idle down a bit more, but my concern about bringing the idle down is that at cold starts the engine will not stay running without the choke untill the engine warms up. ...

The first half of 'choke' travel engages fast idle, the second half lowers the jets (enrichens the mixture). You should be able to feel it; the second half of the choke pull should take more effort than the first.

Check your fast idle settings.