It's been a few years since I last did this, but I recall the bearings being a snug fit. Make sure the stub axle doesn't have any nicks or scratches; if it does I think it's safe to lightly sand it with some fine emery cloth. You can warm the bearings up a little; I bought a cheap countertop oven for tasks like this (and curing paint, etc.). For fitting, at least, you can lightly grease the axle. The inner bearing, of course, can be tapped in with the hub, for encouragement for the outer bearing some steel pipe with an ID slightly larger than the diameter of the axle, or a brass drift can be used (torquing the castellated nut should work, too). IIRC, there's a notch on the backing plate through which you can tap the rotor--I use a plastic hammer for this kind of work--as you turn it, to get the outer bearing off. The inner bearing can be left in place while setting the end float, but you might need a puller to remove it for final greasing. Oil the bearings with some light oil for fitting, but avoid turning them as much as possible. They're a snug fit, but if you have to really pound on them something is amiss. Don't fit the seal in the hub until you're satisfied with your spacer/shim spacing. Hammering on bearings, of course, isn't a great thing but if you're careful and eliminate as much slack as possible before striking it can be done without damage (unless you have an axle press it's about the only way to install the rear hubs).