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3 point seat belts options / location
- Thread starter tdskip
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I got a set from Moss that use the eye bolt through the floor (belts have hooks on them). They come with huge fender washers to reenforce the area around the eye bolt -- I used one washer on each side of the floor. My sprite already had holes drilled in the floor, one in each corner of the floor behind the seats.
Gerard
Luke Skywalker
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tdskip said:
Here's the "proper" way according to BMC
https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/SeatBeltWS.htm
twas_brillig
Jedi Knight
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Gerard - thanks!
We've got lap belts, but I'd prefer to have 3 pointers. We've almost got the BE fully road worthy and I want to check into a roll bar (not for rolling - a bit of protection against getting t-boned by a Hummer in an intersetion).
Suggestons (anyone?) for a 3 point seat belt to be installed in a BE with the upper point hung off a rollbar?
Thanks,
Doug
PS: Gerard - you sure this is original British? Nary a 'twixt' nor 'whilst'? Thanks for providing the info!
We've got lap belts, but I'd prefer to have 3 pointers. We've almost got the BE fully road worthy and I want to check into a roll bar (not for rolling - a bit of protection against getting t-boned by a Hummer in an intersetion).
Suggestons (anyone?) for a 3 point seat belt to be installed in a BE with the upper point hung off a rollbar?
Thanks,
Doug
PS: Gerard - you sure this is original British? Nary a 'twixt' nor 'whilst'? Thanks for providing the info!
The_architect
Jedi Trainee
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I have 3 point lap and shoulder belts in my Bugeye. These are the ones that VB sells 3 point lap/shoulder seat belt in the right column and center of the catalog page I have linked to.
I have a rollbar and simply removed one of its bolts to install the hardware for the shoulder anchor bracket. Sorry I don't have a photo, but it is located near the top of the rear fender well.
The secret to making these belts functional is getting them adjusted right. What you want is for the buckle to be low on your waist, down near the transmission tunnel. If the buckle isn't "low and tight across your waist" then the belt going to your shoulder is going keep slipping off.
It is a real pain to get these particular belts adjusted so they fit though, I must say, especially when a person who isn't ordinarily riding around with you becomes a passenger. And, the belts have a tendency to twist and get in the way, and the buckle is forever falling into the gap between the seat and the tunnel.
Retractable belts would be much easier to use for these reasons. I hesitated to buy the generic ones because I was not sure that I could get the geometry right. There is no way to adjust the distance between the floor and buckle on the ones that VB offers (upper left hand corner of that page).
Another option I might consider for the future is drilling the rollbar and bolting the hardware that anchors the shoulder belt so that it is above the shoulder, similar to what you have in a modern automobile. I haven't driven around enough with them installed to decide whether that is necessary.
The main thing, as I noted above, is to take your time before you leave and adjust the belts so they fit right. And, of course, ALWAYS drive very carefully.
Good luck!
CL
I have a rollbar and simply removed one of its bolts to install the hardware for the shoulder anchor bracket. Sorry I don't have a photo, but it is located near the top of the rear fender well.
The secret to making these belts functional is getting them adjusted right. What you want is for the buckle to be low on your waist, down near the transmission tunnel. If the buckle isn't "low and tight across your waist" then the belt going to your shoulder is going keep slipping off.
It is a real pain to get these particular belts adjusted so they fit though, I must say, especially when a person who isn't ordinarily riding around with you becomes a passenger. And, the belts have a tendency to twist and get in the way, and the buckle is forever falling into the gap between the seat and the tunnel.
Retractable belts would be much easier to use for these reasons. I hesitated to buy the generic ones because I was not sure that I could get the geometry right. There is no way to adjust the distance between the floor and buckle on the ones that VB offers (upper left hand corner of that page).
Another option I might consider for the future is drilling the rollbar and bolting the hardware that anchors the shoulder belt so that it is above the shoulder, similar to what you have in a modern automobile. I haven't driven around enough with them installed to decide whether that is necessary.
The main thing, as I noted above, is to take your time before you leave and adjust the belts so they fit right. And, of course, ALWAYS drive very carefully.
Good luck!
CL
I have three point belts in my Bugeye. The issue for me was getting the attachment as high as possible for the third point, especially since I am a little on the tall side. I was going to attach it to the wheel well (like what came from the factory for my TR6) but then I noticed there is bracing that comes down behind the seat over the rear wheel well. First I welded a nut to the back of a steel plate. Next I welded the plate behind the brace so that I could just screw in the bolt without having to get my fingers behind the brace. If I get a chance, I will post a pic tonight when I get home. I am by no means and expert, but it was the best I could do to get the angles correct.
Kevin
Kevin