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27 bolt motor removal?

zimmy

Jedi Knight
Offline
would anybody (jack ; ))have a list of the "27" bolts you need removed to pull the engine....would hate to spend half a day on a bolt that doesnt need pulled! ; )....zimmy-gearbox investigations /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Gesh,

4 mainfolds.
4 radiator
4 hoses clamps and such
4 trans mounts
2 generator and 2 wireing
2 starter and 1 cables to batt.
1 Dizzy and wireing
2 valve cover
1 fuel line
1 oil pressure
1 water temp

Hay guys what did I forget?? Not sure the starter needs to come out to pull eng, think not so that is 26 that I can account for, must be something else.
 
Lets see:

All Hoses and Fuel Line Clamps
4 Drive Shaft
2 Slave Cylinder
5 Radiator (1 for the Drain)
2 Motor Mount Left or Right
3 Opposite Motor Mount
2 Valve Cover
3 Exhaust Downpipe
4 Air Cleaners
3 Intake Manifold
4 Exhaust Manifold
1 Accelerator Cable
1 Choke Cable
1 Oil Pan Drain
4 Transmission Mount

I got 39 bolts
 
Well things are more complicated the that for a midget.

4 to remove the hood(bonnet)
4? for the grill
6 for the radiator
I left the starter on.
Ground strap
clutch flex line
motor mounts (can't forget those)

I'm sure there are others.
 
Drive shaft slides out
3 for the shifter retainer?
 
yes, drive shaft does, but to slide it back?

forgot a few myself.

makes a great little memory game
 
ok, dont sound TOO bad.....i see valve cover on there..
am i gonna need any gaskets or some kind of kit to put it all back? also how much does a 1275 weigh?
 
You will need a hoist, and sounds like you are going to need transmision seals front and rear etc etc cause you will need to open it up.

Depending upon valve cover gasket you may or may not need a new one. This will be the time to replace hoses and clamps as well. And I am sure you will need a new clutch disk and throw out bearing, in any case never pull engine without replaceing these unless you know their history. You can get gasket stuff at the car center that will let you reuse old gaskets. Hmmm, replace front engine seal while engine is out as well, it is in the timeing chain cover where the crank shaft comes out for the dampner pulley. Look at your book.
 
Just a few gaskets, manifolds, valve cover, exhaust donut.

I usually put a short chain from the rear valve cover stud to the front right side water pump, alternator bracket or some thing in that area. use a 2x4 the strong way have some when help me lift it and someone in the car with a pry bar in case the tranny needs a shove.
 
haha, the other three bolts are the shift plate. Weeee.
 
4 rear d/s
2 slave
4 tranny (2 on the tunnel inside, two underneath)
3 exhaust manifold to down pipe
shift boot 4?
shifter 3
starter connection
dizy plug
high tension lead ( good idea to remove the capand tuck it behind the alt)
ground strap by brake master
ground strap below starter to frame
fuel line
accel and choke cables
alternater plug
1 temp sensor(do not kink, bend,cut or break this tube)
upper and lower rad hoses
2 cross lower radiator tube(for clearance)
fan 4
also a good idea to remove the hood catch on the rad support 3
driver side motor mount 2 nuts( kinda a pain cuz the timing cover is sorta in the way)
pass side motor mount one nut under the mount
4 hood

just did this 2 weeks ago on the neighbors 74

mark
 
SU good one - my last was bout five months ago.

three
 
For a bit of reference, the attached photos are of some "cow tools" -- home-made stuff to make the job easier. This is the engine pulling aid, with new brackets in anticipation of a clutch job for a friend's MGB... but notice the threaded main rod: it'll accomodate MOST BMC engines form an 850 to the 1800's. Pivots from center on a hook to make the tilting fore-aft a bit easier.
 
This is specifically an MGB mains caps puller, but a similar one could be made for the smaller displacement engines. The "legs" straddle the block edges and the threaded rod winds into the center hole in the caps.

Both were patterned loosely after the "tools" section in the Bentley manuals.
 
[ QUOTE ]
ok, dont sound TOO bad.....i see valve cover on there..
am i gonna need any gaskets or some kind of kit to put it all back? also how much does a 1275 weigh?

[/ QUOTE ]

It doesn't weigh a lot... I was able to lift mine with the head removed (not out of the car mind you, but once out of the car - I had to carry it from the back of my Jeep to a work bench at one point).

Be careful... once you pull the engine, you'll start thinking along the lines of... "As long as I have the engine out, I might as well..." Always reminds me of that kids story, "If You Give a Moose a Muffin".

Good luck!!!
 
A complete 1275 weighs in at 255 lbs, so if you pull the engine and trans as a unit, you're looking at about 325 total.
Jeff
 
Ahh, heck, eight feet of 3/4 inch rope with 5 guys and a 2X4 works well. Just watch the paint. Oh yea, young guys.
 
BTDT, Jack. 1275, angle iron and a chain... lifted it out and "coolee'd" it into a guy's townhouse apartment for rebuild... Oh, to be that young again!
 
My daughter and I use to pull em with the rope and 2X4, engine only, striped of course first, then tranny.

Was not a big deal and was cheep, back it went same way.
 
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