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TR6 1976 TR6 Fuel Lines

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Don_Houston

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The original return line from the Separation tank to the Carbon Canister is generally metal up to about the engine block. From there to the Carbon Canister it is some kind of plastic line. The plastic line snapped while I was replacing the steel line. What would be the best replacement for the plastic line - metal / rubber fuel line?

Also, It does not look like replacement Separation Tanks (back by the gas tank) are available. I don't know if I need one, but how do I check my current one? (the car is generally in good shape with 23k miles, but has not been driven in 30 years)

I will be getting into the brakes soon. Should I keep the rear brakes as drum type or are most people converting them to disk?

Many Thanks!
 
As far as I know nothing goes on in the separation canister except that gas vapors have a chance to condense. No moving parts to wear out. You can blow compressed air thru it to make sure nothing is clogging up the inlet and outlet
If you look aound locally I bet you can find the original type nylon emission tubing.
I would say that very very few people find the need or the money to convert the rear brakes to disc..
 
poolboy said:
As far as I know nothing goes on in the separation canister except that gas vapors have a chance to condense. No moving parts to wear out. You can blow compressed air thru it to make sure nothing is clogging up the inlet and outlet
If you look aound locally I bet you can find the original type nylon emission tubing.
I would say that very very few people find the need or the money to convert the rear brakes to disc..
Click to expand...
:iagree:

One source for the tubing might be MMC . Up to you to find the right material and size, though.

Rear discs are mostly for bragging rights. Even with discs up front, the front brakes will overheat before the rears do. A more common conversion (tho still mostly for bling IMO) is aluminum drums to reduce unsprung weight.
 
The hard line, or the 'nylon' ?

A quick search at MMC turned up 74 selections in gasoline-compatible plastic tubing with 1/4" od. Oddly enough, only 36 in 1/4" id.

ISTR the same line on my Stag is closer to 5/16" od, but I could be mistaken (or the Stag could be different).
 
The nylon is OD.
Great if you have the time to have MMC ship it and want to pay their freight
 
Thank to everyone for the input!

As part of my refurbishment, I pulled the radiator, had it checked for leaks (none) and had it completely cleaned, flushed and painted. Since it was a royal pain getting the bottom hose removed for the initial drain, I had my radiator guy install a pitcock / drain on the opposite side from the drain hose. I hope this was a good idea as I think it will make annual flushing much easier. What do you think?
 
DNK said:
Great if you have the time to have MMC ship it and want to pay their freight
Click to expand...
Or if you live just down the road and can pick it up at the "will call" counter :smile:

Actually, my experience has been that they ship very promptly (usually the same business day) and the shipping charges are reasonable (on the occasions when I don't want to bother with driving over there). Unlike some other similar suppliers, they have no minimum order or surcharge on small orders. Their prices are not cheap (definitely not a discount supplier) but seem reasonable to me considering the huge selection of parts, tools and materials that they keep in stock at every district warehouse.

And their on-line catalog is simply great, with links to material information, CAD drawings, MSDS, etc for practically everything I'm interested in. Want to know if 4140 is easier to weld than 12L14? How about the coefficient of thermal expansion for Delrin? It's in there ...

Don_Houston, the drain valve sounds like a good idea to me. I would have added one if my car didn't already have it.
 
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