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TR6 1973 TR6 brake booster hose
- Thread starter sundown
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Have you removed the vacuum retard? If so, the linkage to the float bowl vent valves may be holding the throttle open. Another place to check would be the throttle bypass valve; a cracked diaphragm will allow lots of extra air in.
Yes, a crack in the booster line, or in the booster diaphragm, will have a large effect on idle. It creates a huge vacuum leak.
Yes, a crack in the booster line, or in the booster diaphragm, will have a large effect on idle. It creates a huge vacuum leak.
poolboy
Yoda
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I see you have a 73 car...if your carbs are also 73's then it might be a fairly common problem that affects the idle setting.
The controls for the valve that transitions the location of the vent for the float chamber was experimental in 73. It was changed for the better in 74 and remained the same throughout the TR6 run.
73 version shown here:
Look for interference with the throttle stop lever.
The controls for the valve that transitions the location of the vent for the float chamber was experimental in 73. It was changed for the better in 74 and remained the same throughout the TR6 run.
73 version shown here:
Look for interference with the throttle stop lever.
OP
sundown
Jedi Hopeful
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Thanks for all the input and yes poolboy the carbs are 73 it was a stock car when I bought it. Is there any remedy to correct this problem I hope? I did cap off the distributor no vacuum line also capped of the inlet tube under the rear carb andthe float chamber lines are off that go to the charcoal canister.
poolboy
Yoda
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You really need to observe what's happening to the throttle stop lever as you manipulate it.
On several of the 73 cabs that I've rebuilt I have simply removed the 'c' clip and removed the arm that operates the spring loaded plunger (with the owners knowledge).
You need make sure that the spring loaded plunger is fully extended.
Then, you will have a carb similar to the pre 73 carbs in that ALL the ventilation of the float chamber will be thru the brass lined port in the carbs' air box mounting flange..
You will, however, not have use of the Anti Run-on Valve that came into existence post 72.. You probably don't need it with proper tuning and good gasoline.
On several of the 73 cabs that I've rebuilt I have simply removed the 'c' clip and removed the arm that operates the spring loaded plunger (with the owners knowledge).
You need make sure that the spring loaded plunger is fully extended.
Then, you will have a carb similar to the pre 73 carbs in that ALL the ventilation of the float chamber will be thru the brass lined port in the carbs' air box mounting flange..
You will, however, not have use of the Anti Run-on Valve that came into existence post 72.. You probably don't need it with proper tuning and good gasoline.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
My Stag has the same mechanism, and the same problem (for the same reason). Once I realized the problem, it was easy to bend the little metal clip (the black square under the screw head in Ken's photo above) to get enough range to adjust the bowl vent properly. That would have kept the ARV working (if I had an ARV).