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Spitfire 1971 Spitfire headlamp switch

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69mgbgt

69mgbgt

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Hello all,
I am looking for a headlamp switch for a 1971 spitfire.In the moss catalog they list a switch for 75-80 bit nothing for 70-74. Will the listed switch fit? Am I correct in seeing two female connectors going to the male spades on th missing switch?

Thanks
Ray
 
If your '71 is like my '72, there should be three wires going to the main lighting switch. Brown would be the main feed in, Red/Green out for the running lights, Blue out for the headlights.
 
Thanks. As Moss they don't list one specifically for a 1971. I am just wondering if it will fit. For some reason Victoria and Moss doesn't include 1971 in their listing.
 
Check the explanation about the difference between CH and Lucas switches at that link I sent previously. Functionally, as Doug notes, the switches are the same. I believe the later Lucas switches require some filing to open up the mounting hole in the fascia.

If in doubt, call BPNW or VB directly.
 
guzzul said:
Check the explanation about the difference between CH and Lucas switches at that link I sent previously. Functionally, as Doug notes, the switches are the same. I believe the later Lucas switches require some filing to open up the mounting hole in the fascia.
Click to expand...
I'll have to assume that the "Clear Hooters" switches now being sold have improved immensely from the time when they were the subject of a US safety recall, which included their replacement with Lucas switches. (Please spare me the irony and Lucas-related humor, but the Lucas replacement switches were much better and more durable than the oft-disintegrating CH switches they replaced!)

Read about the recall here; note that it is a .PDF file.
 
Andrew Mace said:
I'll have to assume that the "Clear Hooters" switches now being sold have improved immensely...
Click to expand...
One would expect in 31 years they would have figured it out. But that is pretty cool about the Lucas replacement - they don't get no respect.

It does bring up the point though that many of these switches probably were replaced on the recall, and maybe Ray already has the Lucas switch (and filed fascia) and that's what he should be looking for as a replacement?
 
Certainly possible, Ross. From the "outside" (i.e., as you look at the switch on the dash), the two look virtually identical, and connection/function is the same. But each is pretty clearly marked either "Clear Hooters" or "Lucas" on the backside. I've had or seen several of the Clear Hooters switches fail and/or just plain disintegrate, but not so with the Lucas ones, so I guess I'd still steer away from a Clear Hooters-branded switch all these years later. :wink:
 
Andy, out of curiousity, what do you think the failure mode is/was for the CH switches? Do you think the switch was carrying too much current (damaging the plastic) or do you think it was just too much exposure to sun and heat?
 
Frankly, I think it was mostly low-quality materials, i.e., fragile plastic that also might not have held up to heat and sun exposure, although some GT6 switches had the same problem in my experience. I'll grant you, GT6s can get hot inside, but the dashes tended not to get the same kind of sun exposure that a convertible might get! Most failures I saw were the switch just plain coming apart or some little inside bit failing.

Years ago, I had one of those little air compressors that plugged into the cigarette lighter on a car. Worked for several years until the little on-off rocker switch failed. As I pulled the switch out to rig up a replacement, I saw "MADE IN ENGLAND" on the side of the switch. No brand name, but the design bore more than a passing resemblance to other Clear Hooters switches. :wink:
 
Okay,
Thank you all. Ehen I bought this car there was no light switch. Just two wires hangin thru the dash opening. I know the previous owner mickey moused things(there is signs everywhere). I suspect he had the feed(brown) wire and then he combined the wire for the instruments and headlamps and running lights onto one terminal and simply had an on/off switch. After talking to Moss it seems you can use the switch for 75-80 models with some filing in the opening. No problem.

Now the issue is this. When i jump the wires that should go to the switch the headlamps wont light up. Everything else does as it should. When I activate the column switch the headlamps come on and the "main" beam light on the dash comes on. Is "main" beam in fact the hi beams? Why wont the regualr headlamps turn on with the parking lights when I jump the feed wire to the Red/Green wire and the bluie wire for Instruments?
 
69mgbgt said:
Now the issue is this. When i jump the wires that should go to the switch the headlamps wont light up. Everything else does as it should. When I activate the column switch the headlamps come on and the "main" beam light on the dash comes on. Is "main" beam in fact the hi beams? Why wont the regualr headlamps turn on with the parking lights when I jump the feed wire to the Red/Green wire and the bluie wire for Instruments?
Click to expand...
When you say "activate the column switch," do you mean moving it up from the lower position? There are -- or SHOULD BE -- only two positions. The lower one is for "dipped" or low beams, and the upper is for "main" or high beams. Possibly the switch has partially failed; more likely, the blue w/red tracer wire from the switch has been disconnected from the blue w/red wire leading to the low beam filaments.
 
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