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1970 3500 or a 1980 SD1?

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PATR8

PATR8

Jedi Knight
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I am TR8 guy but i have developed a secondary disease of thinking I need a 3500 powered Rover. I have come accross a SD1 (my favorite) with 104,000 on it in decent shape and a 1970 3500 (it is growing on me)which the guys swears is pristine. I have no idea about the 1970 3500 except what i learned from your very timely thread i just read. There seems to be a shortage on net info on the 1970, any one want to make me smart? What to look for, rust, trans ect (Is it true they all came with autos? Not liking that). I always would like more info on the SD1's (and any info for any for sell in the PA/WV/Ohio area). Thanks guys
 
The Rover Sedans are certainly rare (in the states) and full of 'character'. I believe that the P6B's (like the 1970 3500) were all automatics but we have a local club member that converted his to a five speed. Not too difficult to do either if I remember. 5-Speed SD1's are not hard to find, though parts can be... get used to ordering from England.

As ususal for old cars, check all the usual suspects. They are both wonderful driving sedans that should give plenty of driving pleasure with that V8 burble. The thing to be careful about with the SD1's would be their computers. If you want to keep it fuel injected you might gain some insight to computer problems via FI TR8 info. The computers are very similar. Otherwise, you can convert them to a four bbl the same was as the TR8 can be.
 
Oh, where to begin.......

The later SD1 was not a bad car, very roomy, and that hatch was very useful. Build quality left something to be desired however, and the materials used were not the most durable.

The 1970 car, if truely mint, would be the one that I would go for. Build quality was still way up there in the Rover tradition, and the car handled very sweetly. There were manual-transmission 3500s, (I used to own one!) however they may not have been sold over on this side of the pond. You can get the trannies from the UK still.

Things to watch out for on both cars are rust, rust, and, oh yes, rust. Mechanically, make sure that there are no signs of overheating. Not a good thing with those all-alloy units.........

On the P6 (the 1970 car) check very carefully for rust. Ignore the outer body-panels, they are all bolt-on, and are very easy to replace. Even the roof panel. With a decent paint job, a rot-box is transformed into a trailer queen! Look carefully at the wheel wells, inner wings, and especially the areas around the rear suspension mounts (don't ask how I know about the latter!). If everything checks out underneath, that is the main thing on these cars, and any mechanical parts can be replaced easily.

Personally, given the choice between the two, I would go for the older car, no question.

There are some very knowledgable members on this board who check in often, so stay tuned. Rovernut especially knows these cars inside and out.........
 
I stumnbled accross the by chance adn it is only 120 miles away so I may load up the adn make a ride to take a look at it. I really really like the looks of the SD1 but the P6 is growing on me. I will carb teh car the first time I have any trouble with the PI, just allot easier for me to work on that way. I wish I could find a SD1 with in 100 miles because it would be my first choice still... The owner has pics of teh P6 with all the fenders and front clip off as he did some rust repair but of course you never know until you actually look at teh car.... I gave rover nut a PM asking for some help.
 
If you are in Pa and the P6 is nice, don't tell me where it is. I don't want to be getting a divorce right now, and I would when I drove it home...
 
Actually it is a 2 for one deal, one good body and engine, one good interior. Gotta go to DC next week so I am going to stop and look then. I do hate to toss the donor car. DO you know anyone looking to share a P6 for parts?
 
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