• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 1969 tr6

Share this page

June

June

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi gang. New member. First TR, though not my first Brit. Wanting this for 50ish years and now I have her. So very happy. She's is tip-top shape and I plan to keep her that way, including knowing more about the engine as well now that I'm retired and have the time. Just a couple of elementary q's for now because I want to protect and maintain. Which oil and other engine maintenance products do you prefer? Which wax is protective without being abrasive? Which top cleaner? You know how some of the things we used to think were good we then found out were destructive, like Armor All. Which are your favorite cleaners and protectors?

She arrived yesterday and runs so sweet. Clutch and tranny are nice and tight. No knocks, etc. Came from AZ after I had her checked by a mechanic and no issues. The radiator is leaking antifreeze but only after idling in the driveway and not after being on the road. They said she was simply overfilled. Just want to share my joy at the moment and find out anything I can to keep her nice for years to come.
 
Congratulations on your 'new' car. Arizona is often the source for clean examples.

Motor oil? You might as well ask about brake fluid while you're at it - lots of opinions, little consensus.

I will mention a 'wax' I use that I think is a great product when the finish is in very good condition (no oxidation or damage) and you want an easy way to maintain it. I use Turtle Wax Ice in a spray bottle:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T...TF8&qid=1442083685&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+ice

Easy on, easy off and dirt & bugs don't seem to stick to it. What is also nice is that it is good on black rubber whereas most wax products leave white residue if you get them on the rubber trim.
 
Also debatable to some extent is the need for a motor oil that still contains ZDDP.
Buy yourself some manuals..The Haynes "Owners Workshop Manual" is sufficient for just about everything you'd want to do at home.
The Bentley "Complete Official TR6 & TR250 Workshop Manual" I think most have and is frequently referred to.
Sooner or later you'll wish you had Dan Masters "Triumph TR250 TR6 Electrical Maintenance Handbook"
And don't overlook using the illustrations in the part suppliers catalogs to identify the parts # and correct name for the various components.
 
Thanks for reply and recommendation. That wax sounds easy enough. A friend has suggested one called "Mothers." I have the Complete Official and also Clymer Service/Repair Handbook for TR2 TR6 coming. Thanks for the other suggestions. Perhaps there are threads here debating the other maintenance issues.
 
Don't forget, we like pictures!
 
Today, got started on our first little cruise uphill and 8 miles from home she overheated. I know why. She had been spitting out antifreeze every time I took her around a few blocks or let her idle on the day I got her. The seller guaranteed she didn't overheat and said he had probably overfilled her with antifreeze before shipment. Today she spit out all the antifreeze and when I let her cool and filled her with plain water she ran cool and sweet the rest of the day. I know it's not good to run on water alone and something is needed to prevent corrosion but is there a better alternative to antifreeze? What do y'all use that your TR likes? Someone has mentioned Redline Water Wetter to me this evening, but I'm not sure it's a fit for my car. Suggestions?

Pix coming!
 
Hi June. There are many good antifreeze mixes for your car. But first ...

You need to find out what causes the "spitting out" of what you had.

Where was it spitting from? Loose hose clamp? Radiator leak? Block leak?

You just got the car. What does the seller say now about the spitting?

Tom M.
 
If water works well anti-freeze should too.

Possibly there was an air pocket in the cooling system that you managed to overcome with the last top-up. I always drill a small hole in the thermostat to help coolant get in and air get out during the fill process.
 
Seller simply said he probably overfilled, which made sense until she kept it up. It was dripping from the bottom of the radiator but it doesn't have leaks. I think you're right about the air pocket, it makes sense since she was hauled (facing forward) non-stop 765 miles. The jostling and wind factor could have easily caused air in the radiator. Thanks for your input.
 
If you want to maintain the cam and lifter always use oil with ZDDP in it, contrary to the above comment about being up to debate. You can use oil with ZDDP or you can eventually replace the cam and lifters if you don't. I've seen the results of not using oil with ZDDP in TR 6 engines and it's not good. Brad Penn is one that many of us like, others use a Valvoline "racing oil" available at auto parts stores sometimes on sale. Read the label and be informed. By the way Shell Rotella for trucks used to be a good choice but it too has reduced ZDDP in it so not so good anymore. If you choose to ignore oils with high levels of ZDDP by the ZDDP additive and use that when you change the oil.

Do a Google search on flat tappet engines and the need for oil with ZDDP. Then make your decision.


Also have someone check the thrust washer end play movement. Most TR6 engines that I seen taken apart need the thrust washers replaced. It's a common failure.
 
JerryVV said:
If you want to maintain the cam and lifter always use oil with ZDDP in it, contrary to the above comment about being up to debate.

Do a Google search on flat tappet engines and the need for oil with ZDDP. Then make your decision.
Click to expand...

It would be hypocritical of me to say you don't need ZDDP in your motor oil, when in fact I use motor oil that contains ZDDP...but it would be equally wrong to say it is not a debatable topic.
Please do take JerryVV's advice and "google"
In fact, here's some 'google' results on the subject..
https://search.aol.com/aol/search?s_it=webmail-searchbox&q=need for zddp&s_chn=wm_t20
 
lolol, sorry, doesn't make sense... other than I could only see it dripping below from the radiator area, and the drip was on the opposite side from the overflow container... other than that, beats me. But since it hasn't happened since it "burped" or "regurgitated" and I refilled with water I believe there is no leak in the radiator walls.

OP: poolboy... How is that possible ?
 
That's what I want to focus on... long term protection. Thanks Jerry She has 9g miles on a rebuild and "should" be early enough in the new engine life to prevent many issues.

continuing research

JerryVV said:
If you want to maintain the cam and lifter always use oil with ZDDP in it, contrary to the above comment about being up to debate. You can use oil with ZDDP or you can eventually replace the cam and lifters if you don't. I've seen the results of not using oil with ZDDP in TR 6 engines and it's not good. Brad Penn is one that many of us like, others use a Valvoline "racing oil" available at auto parts stores sometimes on sale. Read the label and be informed. By the way Shell Rotella for trucks used to be a good choice but it too has reduced ZDDP in it so not so good anymore. If you choose to ignore oils with high levels of ZDDP by the ZDDP additive and use that when you change the oil.

Do a Google search on flat tappet engines and the need for oil with ZDDP. Then make your decision.


Also have someone check the thrust washer end play movement. Most TR6 engines that I seen taken apart need the thrust washers replaced. It's a common failure.
Click to expand...
 
Found the problem! There are cracks in both large radiator hoses and a split in one of them. The small ones look fine. I'm going to replace them myself. It's a first for me but I can do it. Where is the best place to purchase the hoses? Are after-market suitable? This is all new to me so patience with my dumb statements and questions please :eek:
 
"After market" is all you'll find.
Try Moss since they have a warehouse out in California...Refer to the catalog for part #'s...You can do it all online if you click on the Moss banner at the top of this page.
 
Back
Top