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1960 Frogeye - What do others do?

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Chatis

Chatis

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I took my Frogeye down to a show this weekend where I was on the freeway for about 25 miles. The car is great and feels solid until about 60 MPH. The best way for me to describe the sensation is that she starts to get light. She starts to wonder a bit. The result is that I feel like she needs something done to the suspension. In speaking to one of the other Frogeye owners he said he lowered the suspension by turning the rear springs (180 degrees or top to bottom) and lowering the front. Has anyone done this? Is it a remedy for the roadholding? Are there shortfalls? Are there other benefits? Does anyone have a similar sensation? Does anyone have any other ideas?

Looking forward to your responses.
 
Has the front end been rebuilt recently? I would think a stock bugeye would feel fine through 70 mph. Before changing spring rates and such, I would be sure there is no excessive wear in the suspension and steering. Don't forget to check for excess play in the inner tie rod ends.
 
I second the idea to check the front end. That would be the place to start. If you do lower it, I had a local spring shop de-arch the quarter elliptics in the rear on one I worked on. The biggest problem in my area is that the "boxes" where the springs anchor to the body get really rusty and disturbing them can lead to a very involved project. But I'm in upstate N.Y. where it's a wonder that any car can survive longer than ten years before its rotted out.
 
It's the front suspension that points the car in the right direction, keeps it straight or makes it turn so if it is wandering, I would think the front two patches of rubber are where the problem would be. I would jack up the front of the car and grab each wheel and try and rock it from side to side and see if something moves where it shouldn't. Your problem could be anything from worn tie-rod ends, bad bearings, disentegrating bushings or perhaps it might just need an alignment among other things. Generally "wandering" is caused by misalignment of the wheels, too much toe-in or too much toe-out causing each wheel to be trying to go different directions at once. As weight shifts between them and at high speeds where the contact patch is only actually in contact with the ground for a very short period of time, the effects are multiplied because there is a higher "slip angle" for the tire. Anyways, technical mumbo-jumbo aside, the misalignment is probably due to worn parts and it's no use getting an alignment if you've got a wobbly piece somewhere. And in any case, lowering the car without first addressing the issue is probably only going to enhance the problem and make it worse or more pronounced. Lowering the car definitely will increase handling, but only if everything else is in order first. Hope this helps!!

JACK
 
The front end has been recently rebuilt and I would say is in Excellent Nick. BUT, I haven't checked the alignment or or the camber. Is this adjustable? What should these be set at?

I would love to hear about how to lower the car. Is it possible for a poor wrench like me to do?
 
Camber is not adjustable. I think toe-in should be set at 1/8 inch. However, if your inner tie rod ends are worn, then setting the toe-in will be difficult. You may try setting it to 1/4" if the steering rack has extra play (to buy some time).
 
There are ways to adjust the camber on a Bugeye. One way is to use eccentric bushings in the trunnions and the control arm mounts. Another method is to put a shim under each of the front shocks. I seem to remember that 1/4" of shim equals a 1 degree negative change. Of course, you have to get longer shock mount bolts when you do it this way.
I run 2 1/2 degrees negative camber on the race car, using eccentrics.
The static alignment specs are 3 degrees caster, 3/4 degree negative camber, and 0 to 1/8" total toe in.
Jeff
 
Shimming the shock will move the inner pivot point. While this provides negative camber, it also upsets the geometry such that you get a greater fluctuation of camber under compression and rebound. If you want to make adjustments, then use the eccentrics, and/or offset trunnions.
 
You're absolutely right Trevor. I was thinking of the race car, where I can adjust all those nasties out.
For a street ride, the eccentric bushings are the way to go.
Jeff
 
2 degree negative camber upper trunnions are available from Tony Benneto who owns the Bugeye Barn in Australia. They replace the original trunnions and will stay at 2 degrees whereas the offset/eccentric bushings have a way of moving.
 
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